please please help crank endfloat problems!
Turbo Mini Forums

right i have just started my build i have put my new thrust bearings in and noticed straight away that there is NO end float at all!i have used brand new thrust bearings, i also have some other sets one from my old turbo engine one from a 1380 engine and one other new set that i also got with the kit which seem to be much smaller in size to the others???

The two new sets i have are stamped on the packet - Aew2122std
- Aew2136std

the old sets are - old metro turbo set
- old set marked on ther back Aew2122/L std

i will get some pics on later if it will help?

cheers pete

did you assemble 'dry'? i.e no oil?

does the crank spin freely?

in my limited experience ive not known the need for 'undersize' thrusts

btw is useful to post the pics in the same post as your query haha

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

yer sorry about that didnt realise till it was done, i put a tiny bit of oil on the thrusts ill try again dry tommorrow but surly i should have a small amount of end float?

The smaller AEW2122 thrusts are for a 998.

I think that they are also a different thickness.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

yer that what i thought think they were just in my kit by mistake! are all 1275 thrusts the same thinkness? or do you think its just the small amount of oil stopping the end float.

Can you get a feeler blade down there at all?
When you spin the crank front to back a little, do the thrusts move at all?

ill try feeler tomorrow. When i roll it back and forward it does move the thrusts in and out but there is no play and when i bolt main strap on it goes quite tight

So you have posted up because you can't feel any play by hand? You shouldn't be able to feel any play by hand. Measure it with feeler gauges.

just waitin for it to be returned to me!watchin bill sollis dud and he gets movement and crank moves free mine dosnt! So this is why i am askin advice.

you need to lever the crank one way, and measure the other side, or put a dial indicater on the nose and lever both forward and then rearward noting the 0.000s of movement

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ok thanks alot. Ill get back to it tomorrow and from what i have read on here i want between 2 and 4 thou

Hi,

When I was building my short motor up, I put 1 thrust washer in, but the other side didnt fit. These where STD sized thrust so I've no idea what the problem was, looking back I should have rubbed the non-bearing face over some wet and dry to tickle a bit off.

But in my nooby'ness I took it to my machine shop who took a bit off the crank, letting both thrust fit.

However, the crank did spin freely afterwards, although as per bill sollis' DVD, he levers the crank back and forth and you can hear a clicking. I tried this on mine and felt no movement, I didnt measure on a DTI gauge or feeler gauges which again is a bit silly but we'll see when I try the clutch for the first time lol.

As mentioned above i think itd be tough to feel a couple of thou movement, so ive just got everything crossed since its built and in the car now!!

that sounds like my problem the second thrust went in but not easily and caused friction. I will clean all with wet and dry tomorrow then try again with no oil

I don't like the clicking. This means too much endfloat. Also, you shouldn't need to lever the crank. Pushing it back and from with your hands should be enough.

Finally. When rubbing down thrust bearings, I always rub the bearing side. The bearing material is so rough from the spraying that flattening this down removes all the high spots, letting the crank endfloat stay the same longer. If not doing this, the high spots will wear down, and all of the sudden, end float is excessive.