cluch problem
Turbo Mini Forums

I have just changed to a pre-verto setup and am now having problems with the clutch i had a look through other clutch posts and nothing jumped out at me as being the problem,
The bite point is right at the bottom of the pedal travel and is difficult to get in to gear (but will go most of the time )

Only thing i can thing is it is not bled properly but i used ½- ¾ a litre of brake fluid and a numb leg by the end of it i would have thought it would have been done by then
I replaced the Primary Gear oil seal while it was all out as it seemed to be a little oily in there(better safe than sorry i thought)
The Primary Gear Thrust Washer was refitted with the taper facing the crank/block and away from the Primary Gear(please tell me if this is wrong)

an ultra light flywheel and back plate from MED was fitted along with a arp clutch plate and gray diaphragm
The clutch plate was fitted with the flat side facing away from the block
other bits
MED bolt and key washer
long pre-verto arm
pre-verto plunger and bearing
pre-verto slave cylinder and braded clutch line
i used the existing push rod
new pin in the top

Before carrying out this work the clutch operated fine and did not cause any problems (bar slipping on hi boost hence the swap)

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

Edited by Brett on 17th Feb, 2009.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

i thought that about the push rod but in the sc parts cat the push rod is listed as the same part number

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

Mine was like this, ive had to drill and tap the end and i have a little cap hap to extend the length of the rod.

Works fine.

Just make sure you find the compramise between feel of the clutch and the release bearing not seating all of the time of the pressure plate.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

when i put the car together i replaced the original with one from minispares so i would have thought that would be correct

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/index.php...sosinfo&sosid=9

Instead of guessing if the pushrod is ok, follow the check in this link to confirm if it's ok.

Got to the bottom of this problem in the end, found two problems
1. misadjusted which didn't help
2. too much free play on the pedal
The free play was the pedal moving before any of the hydraulics moved at all. The problem ended up being a 25 year old clevis pin (which I swore I replaced when I built the car) but evidently did not. The pin had 2 groves over 1mm all the way around where it is held in pace, it was surprising the amount of free play this removed that was then used by the hydraulics and hence solved my problem

Edited by turbominij on 22nd Feb, 2009.

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

hope you greased the pin when you assembled it ?

yes grease was used else they get stuck for one

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power