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MikeRace

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Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Daftest question in know but i cant remember for the life of me??

It comes out of the head doesnt it

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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Jimster
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455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

yes in the block, out of the head

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


MikeRace

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6549 Posts
Member #: 1149
#1 Basshunter Fan

Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Winner cheers mate

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/


Radleigh

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367 Posts
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West London

always remember... heat rises, so technically, the bottom of the rad should be cooler, meaning cooler water goes into the engine.

Lightweight racer coming soon.


SidewaysGTM

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Oxford, Kings Lynn, Pod, Pub.

Unless you have a certain year Corvette as that uses reverse cooling!!! Reverse cooling seems to be rather rare many theories some sound tho

WEST

Got A GTM With A Honda In the Back, and huge Nitrous bottle where the passenger seat should be when racing!

On 19th Oct, 2009 Nic said:
Ill donate to the cause if you can make it do wheelies!!


Jay#2

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Northern Ireland (ex AUS)

If you don't mind me asking on this thread, when working out how to run the water hoses for a t2, it would be useless running a hose off the top rad hose (say using a bottom hose with the 13mm pipe off it) through the turbo and then into the bottom hose wouldn't it? That would be ruuning back to front with water comming from the top hose to the bottom?

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
!!!!!!sdrawkcab si gnihtyreve ?droabyekym ot deneppah sah tahw ayhwdd


James_H

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Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

proif you plum in in that way would you not basically be cutting out the rad from the turbo's "system". you would be pumping hot water in to get hotter and then back into the block...it might be minimal but just a thought?

could you not plum in into the return line from the heater? or into the feed line from the heater?

if into the return line then the heater would be cooler when entering the turbo so you have have better coling. but if into the feed the it should help with getting the heater temps up in the morning......not that you should be getting the turbo that hot when then engine isnt warm....


Jay#2

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I was going to have it in series with the heater as you say but then I can't turn off the heater. I may just plumb it in instead of the heater for now. I thought if I T'ed the heater tap (before the valve that is) then T'ed the lower rad hose so I can the heater and turbo in parrallel.

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
!!!!!!sdrawkcab si gnihtyreve ?droabyekym ot deneppah sah tahw ayhwdd


hario

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Senior Member

turbo first would ensure toasty driving in the winter, but heater first would be the turbo enthusiasts choice, because said 'turbo enthusiast' would want his prise posession to remain within operating temps. during extreeme road antics..
lol


Turbo Shed

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Epsom, Surrey

mine goes, heater take off on head (tap removed), then turbo, then heater, then back to bottom hose.

as for driving in summer, dont turn the heater fan on, if still too worm then open window, still too worm-drive faster, or if stuck in traffic-drive with door open


hario

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Ha!


Jay#2

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Northern Ireland (ex AUS)

If you could tap the block near the water pump that would be handy! Yes, heater->Turbo it is. Explaining the traffic door swinging to the police would be fun!

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
!!!!!!sdrawkcab si gnihtyreve ?droabyekym ot deneppah sah tahw ayhwdd


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 28th Feb, 2009 Turbo Shed said:
mine goes, heater take off on head (tap removed), then turbo, then heater, then back to bottom hose.

as for driving in summer, dont turn the heater fan on, if still too worm then open window, still too worm-drive faster, or if stuck in traffic-drive with door open


Don't like this as it will be unbareable to be in the car in summer. You really need to use two circuits. The turbo circuite runs all the time, then a device to stop the heater. Anything else is just silly.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Turbo Shed

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Epsom, Surrey

my set up was perfect in a normal mini, but i have a van and the windows dont open much, plus no head lining also adds to the heat in the car


Turbo Tel

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Delaware, USA



Why not set up a "Y" valve that can divert the water around the heater core?? That way you can still have control of the heating and even when its off there is still flow through the turbo via the bypass around the core??

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Turbo Shed

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Epsom, Surrey




On 2nd Mar, 2009 Turbo Tel said:


Why not set up a "Y" valve that can divert the water around the heater core?? That way you can still have control of the heating and even when its off there is still flow through the turbo via the bypass around the core??


that is a thought, but i'm not keen on putting turbo heated water back into the engine without cooling it


Turbo Tel

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On 2nd Mar, 2009 Turbo Shed said:


that is a thought, but i'm not keen on putting turbo heated water back into the engine without cooling it


Then put it through an aux rad instead..or as well..


Found this... exactly mirrors the problem, vacuum I know but could be modified, must be something similar out there..

http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/coolbypass.html

Edited by Turbo Tel on 2nd Mar, 2009.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

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