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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Making a carb boost sensitive..Turbodave?

Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

Even though I am still taking my engine to bits/cleaning up, etc. I have decided that my M45 blower is going to be where the alternator goes, through a Vauxhall intercooler which is pretty much spot on and then into a blow through HIF 44.

As I have loads of HIF 44 carbs, it would be a shame to spend money on one if I didn't have to.

What are the key differences in blowthrough carbs and N/A? Are these differences easily achievable for other sorts. I myself will probably be using a Turbo carb as it is the most easy, but I would be interested in other alternatives, just for the hell of it.

I have my Metro haynes manual here but it is pretty skinny.

Cheers stu (also aka kneegrow!)

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


TurboDave16V
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I have a picture at work that explains it all. I'll upload it monday. As you suspect, a nat-asp is easilly modified into blowthru spec...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Who remembers this first time around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF0a5aoEGsw


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

I bumped into the "Fabricating your own plenum" thread and couldn't decide if keeping the restrictor ring was 100% necessary. Vizard seems to show a ring inside the carb, I suppose that making the "hole" in your plenum a bit undersize would have the same effect.

Ideally, I would just like to use my MG Metro N/A carb with a home brew rigup.

stu

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

I think it is the length of the ring that is quite important rather than the size (diameter) of it. I think this is because the length means that no air flow can be 'sucked' round the corner (for want of a better explanation?) for instance like you get with a radiused ram pipe.


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iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

i thought the diameter was the most important as it creates a pressure drop across the carb mouth.


nutter driver

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Not very sunny swanage

did you ever find the pic dave? would be very interested......

or failing that, does anybody else know how to adapt a na carb. dont need to know right now, but thought it would be a very usefull thing to finbd out about!!

Pete

And on the 7th day........... God created turbochargers!


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

I will see if I can drag anything off the sphincternet.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


TurboDave16V
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A starter...
Sorry about the size!!!!

Edited by TurboDave16V on 14th Apr, 2009.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Who remembers this first time around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF0a5aoEGsw


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

Lovely Job. I take it (for the price they are secondhand) you may as well get a pukka turbo carb (assuming the spindle seals/modulator ring are not available cheaply). Also, another stu-pid question, would the turbo inlet manifold fit over a Large Bore LCB? (No turbo!)

Cheers for that. stu

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


TurboDave16V
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Stu,
If you had a plenum, and an inlet, but no carb, i'd say modify one. The seals incidentally are the same as the nat-asp ones (available from Burlens or Iain on here) but reversed so as to 'open out and seal' with pressure, rather than vacuum....

Ebay has gone stupid for the metro turbo carbs and what-not... best looking somewhere else i'd have thought.

Inlet? Really not sure... It'd only be the 'water pipe' that'd get in the way, and most people run with this disconnected anyway - so it'll certainly be MADE to fit!

No stoopid questions, no stoopid answers!

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Who remembers this first time around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF0a5aoEGsw


nutter driver

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Not very sunny swanage

since theyre are no stupid questions, ill ask one!!!

if i wanted to modify a na to turbo, would i have to do more than what youve said above and get a turbo rebuild kit with all the seals in? theres got to be more to it than that?

And on the 7th day........... God created turbochargers!


TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

as i said - a 'starter'

You need the correct needle - but chances are the stock one is no good and would need tweaking for a modified engine anyway!
You need to seal the dashpot to the body. Ideally, you'll machine a groove in the body. However, instant gasket or similar could work, but is not an ideal solution...

And that's it.
Use the correct plenum, mod the pies as shown,
Bosh!

Edited by TurboDave16V on 27th Oct, 2004.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Who remembers this first time around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF0a5aoEGsw


iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

Can get all the bits seperately but for the price of a rebuild kit its a peace of mind. if the bearings are shagged it wont show up as much on a NA but once the pressure is going in the other directions out pisses fuel *happy* just above the nice hot turbo *happy*


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

Cheers Dave.

I'll crack on with that.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

Found out my 1275 road mini (na) has a 1.5" hif, so went to fit a spare 1.75 hif and found it had a 4 and a 5 on it...(see TD's diagram above)

Im just going to block the anti run on valve up, but what should I connect the part throttle lean off pipe (5) up to?

please bear in mind its for a non performance road engine.

cheers

joe

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"


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