Turbo Project about to commence
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi

Added a 2" maniflow downpipe and single box side exit system with turbo clamp and solid tower mounts from avonbar, to pile of bits.

Also got a MPI tank.

I have full MG Metro Lump complete, with ECU and pump and pressure dump thingy.

I am about to cut the bulkhead this week.

Are the any other bits I need or should be doing before I drop engine in?

Paul

Yeah, a digital camera!! then you can bring the pics round my house!!! LOL

MM

Sooperdooperturbocooperexpertengineering!

Do a dummy fit of the downpipe onto the turbo! It wants to be just clear (4-5mm) of the pot joint. The flange should be nicely aligned to the turbo elbow. If it isn't, you might want to consider putting a small cut in the downpipe, and tweaking it slightly, then welding it up again.

Also, check your clamp fits nicely around the pipe - the std metro ones are designed for a 1 3/4" downpipe, and down fit neatly around the larger maniflow pipe. Easy fix is to get the grinder out and make the 'semi-circle' on each half of the clamp slightly larger in radius (about 3mm) with a grinder so it fits nicely round the pipe.

I would also weld the head of the bolts to one of the clamp halves. If you don't do this, you'll be wishing you had after only a few minutes!

I find it easier to drop it in with the turbo connected, but with the carb off. the main reson is the oil return pipe! When fitting the jubilee clips on this pipe, make sure you align the clip on the pipe end at the block, such that you can get at it, should you ever need to remove the turbo. I find the best orientation is one that you can use a 7mm 1/4" drive socket on a medium extension bar, horizontally - ie looking at the rear of the radiator. Again - something to practice and find yourself before dropping it in.

If you want to retain a side mounted rad, i'd look at modifying the breather canister on the timing cover. You might find one off a 1275 mini, but it's easy to modify. All you need to do is remove the timing case, get it in a vise, and hacksaw down the outside of the breather body, level with the smaller diameter pipe. You then cut a piece of thin steel to fill the remaining hole. I personally junk the crappy gauze in the canister, and replace it with one of those 'stainless steel pan scrubs' you find in the kitchen, before welding the plate onto the breather. Hey presto, no fan spacer is needed, which of course means it's easy to get the rad in and out!
You'll often hear some 'monkeys' saying to attack the breather with a hammer. you'll find these are usually the turbo conversions that live up to the rest of this 'fix'!!!

Finally, run a 1/4" unf tap through the two holes that the engine steady will be attaching to at the flywheel end of the block. If you try winding a bolt into the one that was left open to the air for the last 10 years, you'll get about 5 turns before it shears off!

That's about all i can think off that you need to consider before fitting, in order to make a good, professional job of it...

D

Just one thing that might be worth doing before the lump goes in is replace the little 90 degree elbow pipe at the bottom of the turbo that returns the oil back into the block I thinks its part number is CAM629. But well worth replacing now and not when the engine is in as no ones hands are that small to get round the back of the engine once in place. One word of WARNING is that these pipes are not cheap, Mine was a whopping 23 quid!! yes thats about a fiver per inch of pipe, but anyway mine had perished where the jubilee clips hold it on and would have pi$$ed oil everywhere.

Just a thought for you

Rob

Edited by bigfeetrob on 28th Sep, 2003.

You might find some cheaper alternatives to Rover hose. Try any hose specialist and ask for silicone hose with 3/4" ID and 90 degree angle. They are available here in Finland so I expect to find them in UK as well. Normal oil resistant rubber WILL NOT LAST !

Jukka