Can any body see any problems with me welding this into the wok?
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As in the title, I have knocked this up to eliminate the clutch arm, once i've got some seals for it, and drilled holes to connect the hose and bleed screw I can hack the wok up, weld it in and try it.

any thoughts?

Edited by Joe C on 7th Apr, 2009.

I don't see a problem with fitment especially. My only thought is that the movement at the plunger is tiny <10mm iirc. So you're going to need a well sized master cylinder (quite small) to get the feel right.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

It's a great idea. I did it a little differently - all the same principle however. :)

I should have mentioned that this is intended for a verto clutch, and should (unless i have cocked my maths up lol) work with the std master.

to get the right travel my my calcs i make the piston size 30mm for vertos and 50 ish mm for pre verto.

Own the day

Wont be a problem with welding as long as the casting is clean
Nice idea. Im sure we will all want to know how well it works

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

Quite right, It's hard to judge the piston size from that picture while sat at my desk.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Looks good Joe.

what slave will you use with this?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Team Racing

ideed this is the slave, totally replaces the std slave and all the arms and the plunger.

I'm just waiting for somone to come up with the same issues i have spotted

Edited by Joe C on 7th Apr, 2009.

Joe you’re a legend that’s a great Idea well done you, Very interested to see how this works top marks to you sir.

Just an Idea but you don’t need to weld it If you put a nut and bolt trough the original pivoted point and tighten it up it will close the hole in the wok like a big Jubilee clip might be an option.

the other option would be to turn up a slightly different cylinder block with a raised ring near the open end . you could then put this trough from the clutch side and it would lock up agents the wok

The only problem I see is when you weld it in, your "cylinder" bore will get forcibly reduced on it's inside diameter where the weld is on the outside.

Do you have a reamer to finish the bore after welding ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

well,

the piston size is 32mm which is bigger than st standard plunger, the outside of the cyl is 2" so the wok will need to be opened up to allow that to slide in,
I may be able to use the step idea to locate it or some bolts (grub screws).

also the wall of the cylinder is pretty thick so shold not distort too much. but i probaby can lay my hands on a reamer.

I'll just have to see what the wok looks like after i've butchered it.

the main issue i can see is rotation of the piston, the seal should hold it alignedish but i think the release bearing would only need to grab a tiny bit toi cause a problem.

what i was thinking was of was to install an of set pin, locating axially in a drilled hole in the piston.

Edited by Joe C on 7th Apr, 2009.

it is not painted red so will not give 10000hp gains, neither is it green so may not work on older mini's :)

On 7th Apr, 2009 mini13 said:
ideed this is the slave, totally replaces the std slave and all the arms and the plunger.

I'm just waiting for somone to come up with the same issues i have spotted

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Own the day

Without going into details, when welding my outside plenum tubes (which the inner ones have to fit inside) they shrunk a lot more than I was expecting.

Grub screws sound a good idea - if you use the cup point type they are pretty strong anyway, but the cup point makes an obvious mark allowing you to then drill a small recess anyway to make it foolproof.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

there is a fair bit of material that can be removed, i copuld probably half the length of what is the currenly, maybe more.

Get it made and in!

Looks like a nice little solution, don't forget to fit a bleed nipple.

Looks like a cracking idea it will certainaily eliminate the wear in the original parts. The only other problem that may occur if the seals leak the fluid will be going into the clutch.

true star mag,

but it is the othr side of the flywheel from the friction plate, plus the fluid will probably jsut make a downwards trickle type exit.

I was just thinking that I could maybe make the whole unit with drawable so it could be pulled to change the release bearing.

I dont think it will be a problem just nit picking lol! You will no if you have a problem anyway as the clutch pedal will start to fade!

Now then, me and turbo dave know a little about this idea,
i know your going to say i'm jumping on the wagon, but if dave shows you his cad files you'll see its about 3-4 years ago i was looking to do this,

iirc , your bore is far too small,somehting like 60mm dia is needed,
i was going to thread the slave into the wok, this way adjusting for freeplay would be easier although not really needed,

its still a good idea, just not new,lol'

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

FFS! is there anything you havent done first! lol

actually i'm suprised that this hasnt been done already.

Carl i assume you and dave were looking at doing it to a non verto? hense you needing a much bigger bore.

yes non verto, but how much does the plunger move on a verto setup,

its about 0.160" on a non verto, hence the big bore,

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE