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Rod S

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Yes, that's MIG, not TIG.....

Anyone tried it ???

With a normal hobby/semi-Pro MIG (which would be a DC machine), not the fancy expensive pulsed AC stuff that is meant for MIG of aluminium (and I used to have access to at work a long time ago *frown* ) but just an ordinary DC MIG with aluminium wire and pure argon for shield gas.

I've been experimenting this afternoon with mixed results.

I'd be interested in anyone else's experience if anyone has tried it....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


paul wiginton
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Ive never got on with it, just ended up with a birds nest of wire inside the machine cos the feed wheels were crushing it. You need feed wheels with a radius on the edges of the grooves ideally.

Are you willing to show pics of what you have done?

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Jason G

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You still need AC to be honest.

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Rod S

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On 15th Apr, 2009 paul wiginton said:

Are you willing to show pics of what you have done?


To answer the second question first - not yet !!!! It wouldn't be fair, I've been cutting them all back with coarse sanding disks (as you can't "grind" ally) to check for porosity, cracks etc.

It looks like this after sanding but not really a fair view of how it looked after welding... .

On 15th Apr, 2009 paul wiginton said:
...just ended up with a birds nest of wire inside the machine cos the feed wheels were crushing it. You need feed wheels with a radius on the edges of the grooves ideally.


My problem is similar - wire feed...... but no birds nest.

What is happening to me is the wire doesn't accellerate fast enough when starting to weld and flashes back and sticks to the copper tip/nozzle. Then the feed wheel slips and chews up the outside of the wire because it's so soft - I think your point about the wheel profile is really valid here - so when I free it and get a clean start, a few seconds later the chewed up bit of wire comes through the tip, slows and burns back ..... and so it goes on......

I'm on maximum wire feed speed for the current (which is very high anyway) and even when I get a clean start, after about 100mm the torch is so hot the wire fuses to the tip anyway....

I've upped the argon to 12l/min to try and keep the copper tip cool, but to no avail....

I've also enlarged the drilling in the tip to 1.5mm (I'm using 0.8mm ally wire) which did reduce the sticking on startup but seemed to make the overheating come on quicker....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


tadge44

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How big a reel of wire are you using ?I,m thinking of the amount of drag.With the steel wire and a big reel there is a lot of drag but the drive wheel can grip,unlike the problems you are experiencing.The finished weld looks OK to me.


paul wiginton
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A good test is to cut through the profile of the weld to see how well its pentrated and for porosity. That linished weld looks good though

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Rod S

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On 15th Apr, 2009 Jason G said:
You still need AC to be honest.


Yes, the fancy AC machine at my old work place was the dog's b******s
But it was NOT cheap..... We bought it for making up a lot of aluminium extension chequer plate floors in 12 -15mm aluminium, it used a helium/argon mix for shield gas (now called alushield and over twice the price of argon...) but isn't really a "home" option *frown*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Tom Fenton
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MIG welding aluminium? From the chap who turned up his nose at my TIG set and said it wouldn't weld aluminium properly? Hmm.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Rod S

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On 15th Apr, 2009 tadge44 said:
How big a reel of wire are you using ?I,m thinking of the amount of drag.With the steel wire and a big reel there is a lot of drag but the drive wheel can grip,unlike the problems you are experiencing.The finished weld looks OK to me.


Small reel for the ally but I've reset the "brake" torque accordingly.

I've even slackened it right off (and had the wire tangle) to prove it isn't that - I think Paul's point about the profile of the feed wheels is interesting, but the jamming seems to be at the "hot" end.

Any weld can look "good" after a bit of "polishing" :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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On 15th Apr, 2009 Tom Fenton said:
MIG welding aluminium? From the chap who turned up his nose at my TIG set and said it wouldn't weld aluminium properly? Hmm.


Haha Tom.....

I can't remember the exact thing I said (link it back to me) but I probably said that to TIG weld ally well you need a square wave AC TIG with variable forwards/backwards pulse (weld vs clean) and I may have even said variable frequency.

I'll stand by that :)

However, if it is possible to get an acceptable weld from a DC MIG (which is a hell of a lot faster than TIG if it runs right) does appeal in my current injection project :)

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rod S

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On 15th Apr, 2009 paul wiginton said:
A good test is to cut through the profile of the weld to see how well its pentrated and for porosity. That linished weld looks good though


Without cutting it, penetration is poor.....

It's strange, unlike TIG where you can see when you're about to melt through, the MIG (once it's actually running) looks like it's about to melt through all the time, but when you stop, it's exactly the opposite....

I think it's down to the heat distribution from DC, but I need to experiment some more.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Tom Fenton
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On 15th Apr, 2009 Rod S said:

I can't remember the exact thing I said (link it back to me) but I probably said that to TIG weld ally well you need a square wave AC TIG with variable forwards/backwards pulse (weld vs clean) and I may have even said variable frequency.


Square wave- check
Variable balance (weld/clean)- check
Variable Frequency- check

I have all the above, but you still seemed to think my m/c wouldn't TIG aluminium properly. It seems OK to me though I must say, esp for £385.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Jason G

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I agree with Paul, weld a test piece. Cut it open and inspect it. Guide lines & rules to fabrication & welding are always broken. :)

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk




On 15th Apr, 2009 Tom Fenton said:



On 15th Apr, 2009 Rod S said:

I can't remember the exact thing I said (link it back to me) but I probably said that to TIG weld ally well you need a square wave AC TIG with variable forwards/backwards pulse (weld vs clean) and I may have even said variable frequency.


Square wave- check
Variable balance (weld/clean)- check
Variable Frequency- check

I have all the above, but you still seemed to think my m/c wouldn't TIG aluminium properly. It seems OK to me though I must say, esp for £385.


Tom, let's not fall out - if you got all that for £385, you did a LOT better than me. My Cebora was nearlyy £1500 six years ago...

Today I'm looking at what can be done with DC MIG and if anyone has really tried it.

For larger items it could be a godsend if it can be made to work...


BTW, what was my post - was I p****d at the time ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


SidewaysGTM

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Best advice is pre heat the ally first, helps loads with pentration when migging ally, as all the heat is ducted away from the weld hence it sits on top, give it a good preheat and it will weld so much nicer. only done a little myself but the preheating helped no end

WEST

Got A GTM With A Honda In the Back, and huge Nitrous bottle where the passenger seat should be when racing!

On 19th Oct, 2009 Nic said:
Ill donate to the cause if you can make it do wheelies!!


Paul S

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I find this very interesting as it opens up my options for welding up my manifold in the not too distant future.

However, I'm intrigued as to why you have bothered to try it, given you already have the AC Tig?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Jason G

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I'm not an expert with ally, but I reckon its only thick stuff you need to pre-heat. At a guess, up to 5mm shouldn't require it.


On 15th Apr, 2009 SidewaysGTM said:
Best advice is pre heat the ally first, helps loads with pentration when migging ally, as all the heat is ducted away from the weld hence it sits on top, give it a good preheat and it will weld so much nicer. only done a little myself but the preheating helped no end

WEST

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 15th Apr, 2009 Paul S said:
However, I'm intrigued as to why you have bothered to try it, given you already have the AC Tig?


Because welding long runs (like in my plenum design) with TIG leads to all sorts of distortion, takes ages, and uses lots of gas.....

If MIG can be made to work, just like mild steel, it's fast, creates little distortion and is low on consumable costs...

TBH it was the speed and lack of distortion that made me try it rather than cost of gas...

Theoretically it works, the practicallity is the quality and setup of the equipment....

But give me the AC MIG I used to have acess to at work, anytime instead of this....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Jason G

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I think we have all been guilty of having top tools at work....then trying stuff at home......with grim results :(

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

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PMSL


On 15th Apr, 2009 Jason G said:
I think we have all been guilty of trying stuff at home......with grim results :(

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Jason G

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lol mini13!
What make was your TIG? Had quite a good run with it when I tried.

Edited by Jason G on 15th Apr, 2009.

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 15th Apr, 2009 Jason G said:
I'm not an expert with ally, but I reckon its only thick stuff you need to pre-heat. At a guess, up to 5mm shouldn't require it.


On 15th Apr, 2009 SidewaysGTM said:
Best advice is pre heat the ally first, helps loads with pentration when migging ally, as all the heat is ducted away from the weld hence it sits on top, give it a good preheat and it will weld so much nicer. only done a little myself but the preheating helped no end

WEST


Even at 3mm with DC and MIG (so no pause to get the heat up) the heavier weld bead at the beginning of the run is really noticeable.

Any attempt at pre-heat is a real pain in the "home" environment...

I tried a dummy plate in front of the weld (on the long ones) so the heat went into that first and then onto the main body of the weld as the weld progressed, it worked well except my torch "melted" after about 100mm

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

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Mitec same (make) as Paul S's, I reckon Toms german one is a better machine for simalar money though.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Jason G

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I got on ok with it...on first attempt. :)


On 15th Apr, 2009 mini13 said:
Mitec same (make) as Paul S's, I reckon Toms german one is a better machine for simalar money though.

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland


On 15th Apr, 2009 Rod S said:


Because welding long runs (like in my plenum design) with TIG leads to all sorts of distortion, takes ages, and uses lots of gas.....



OK, so as I do not have any long straight runs I'll stick with the TIG.

Must say that I'm brickin' it.

I might just cut some strips of ally and start tigging them together tomorrow.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

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