Wheels..
Turbo Mini Forums

I have some 13x7 superlites atm for my project, I have been talking to some one today who was pretty up on his mini's and he recons that the 7in wide wheels ruin the handling of the mini and recommended that the 6in are better, whats your thoughts?

yes, sell them!

if your going to run 13's get 6x3's with an offset of +20ish

i reall like my 7x13's... as long as the suspension is setup to suit, i cant see a problem... well other than the weight :)

ah, but anton your not trying to whack turbo type torque through them!

actually that is a good point, Nic will you be running a turbo? if not the wont be as much of an issue.

Yep I am running a metro challenge turbo lump, the 7in may not be a good idea.

What is the problem, just tramlining?

hmm i have 7x13 deep dish and there not the best for a mini but i really like how they look so am sticking with them. unless your racing or doing a lot of track days then i dont think youll notice much in the handling side of things but they do tend to tram line a lot and exagerate torque steer a lot.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

7.5 wide no issues

Own the day

As it comes down to every time this discussion comes up - as long as the dimensions arent completely ridiculous you can make it handle well with whatever wheel setup!!

Just look at the wil and ben's car, 7x13's iirc and im sure they wouldnt be sticking them on a hillclimber if it meant the wheel choice made it handle like a dog :)

On 18th Apr, 2009 GaryOS said:

On 18th Apr, 2009 Mr Joshua said:
7.5 wide no issues

Ah, but aren't they 74" diameter? Therefore no torque

Own the day

Ah, but will and bens car is a race car (as is the DON), hence it will be very low ( lower than a std mini sitting on the bumpstops?) and very stiff, meaning there will be much les weight transfer due to the lower C of G, blus it wont be seeing any bumpy B roads.

also how much torque does their hilclimer make? i know its pokey but is is still a 998, i would expect it to make a bit less torque than a lot of the 1293's on here.

Roberts steering at 150hp thread is well worth a read, basically the outcome of it is when running 6x13's its wise to run an ET of approx +20 (approx the same as sportpacks and ERA's), robert reduced his from about +16 iirc and it made a big difference.

the commonly available 7x13's have an et of -7, essentially the equivalent of sticking 1" spacers on a sports pack or era.

IIRC with my 7x13's the projected line through the balljoints onto the floor is somthing like approx 1.5" inside the inner edge of they tyre, with metro drive flanges it would be even more!

That damn scrub radius ey Mini13!!

scrubby scrub scrub its all about the scrub radius.

just looking at a hub infront of me, our steering axis is very shallow. So in order to get a decent sort of scrub radius we're going to need a rather +ET.

Any sort of -ET is going to get a pretty large + scrub radius. Easier to turn the wheels while stationary but who cars about that! we would'nt be sticking wide wide wheels on if we wanted to be able to turn them easy sitting still!

Pretty sure my wellers must be a +offset, not as deep as 7x13 ultralites i dont think.

16x10j et-20 going on my 200sx, awesomesauce!

Posative ofset reduce scrub negative offset more scrub simples.

Own the day

Indeed MrJ but what is the optimum scrub angle?

I'm hardly clued up on geometry and would be interested to know because I can base my wheel size and offset on that then.

Also say you have a 6" wide wheel with an ET of -7 and a 7" wide wheel with the same ET, does the scrub radius change?

well,

the scrub radius is distance from the point the KPI intersects the ground to the centre of the tyre contact patch,

the centre of the contact patch is usually assumed to be in the middle of the tyre, and the middle of the tyre will be at the middle of the rim faces (where et is calculated to) so... the 6"& 7" rim will have the same scrub radius if the have the same ET.

However, assume you was to run 45 deg negative camber, the tyre would run on the inside edge of the tyre, hence the contact patch would not be i n the centre of the tyre, so.... how does this affect the contact patch at 1 deg negative camber?

And this is where the tall sidewalls on 10" wheels is a bad factor. Lots of movement on the sidewall move the contact patch all over the place under cornering etc. Which screws with the scrub radius. Uhmmm so it all depends on camber, offset, tyre size, sidewall movement! Complicated!!!!

Edited by James_H on 19th Apr, 2009.

7s work great on my car, but I run ARBs, crossploy tyres, an LSD and it's low and stiffly sprung.

If I was putting 13s on a road car I's stick with 6s. I'm confident 7s could be made to work on the road, but the grip gain would be minimal compared to the 6s and setting up on the 6s would be more straightforward.

7s will look harder though!

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Sorry to hijack, but is there any point keeping my 10x9s? Or will they be more suitable for drag type stuff? :/

http://www.jolyonway.com

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

No unfortunately, I bought them a while ago - managed to pick up 4 10x9s and 2 10x8s for £60 from someone who was completely done with Minis... no idea why I bought them unfortunately.
I have coilover suspension - but really just wanting to run some nice 10x7s...
If these wheels are any good for track or something I would keep them, otherwise I think I shall be offloading them as they are taking up space in my garage :/

http://www.jolyonway.com

What sort of tyres do you hope to get on 8 or 9" wheels? I thought there was a problem getting tyres for 7" as it was?

Dunlop do some special 10x8 tyres - they can be fitted onto 10x9s according to Dunlop.
These are just semi slicks or slicks I seem to remember.

http://www.jolyonway.com

Ah, so it's a track day tool?