Rebuilding your Carb
Turbo Mini Forums

Hooraaah!

Had another go:



Looks right to me!!

Just going to soak my thumb in some hot water now, ouch

Guys.

Does anyone have any experience with what happens when you take the dashpot (complete with needle etc) off the carb body and apply fuel pressure to the carb ?

Should the rising action of the float and the closing of the needle valve in the base of the carb close off the flow of fuel to the jet holder or will fuel shoot up from the jet ?

It's just that mine does the latter and I'm wondering if my needle valve is not working properly before I go taking the carb off to check.

Also, does anyone have any experience with the Nylon needle valve conversion (as a replacement for the brass needle) ? Is this something that you would include when re-building your carb for example ?

Cheers.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

Duno man.

I will be attempting rebuild v.soon using this sweet guide.

Edited by Brett on 18th Jan, 2009.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

dig dig dig.. lol

No matter about the date.

Cheers for replying Brett. Confirmed my thoughts. Thanks.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

the seal for the dashpot to carb body. does anybody have a picture of how its located on the body?
so i can get a n/a carb machined to fit it

cheers
Adam

Sorry to bring this thread up again but thought I just aswell other than making a new one.

How do you go about setting the float level on a hif44?

I did have the instructions, i'm sure I set it right but want to make sure, but cant find the instructions!!

I know it involved a straight edge acros the top and bending the needle valve contacting tab to alter the float level but cant remember what the height should be, any ideas?

Cheers

Not to worry, just found it in my metro haynes.


With the carb invered (upside down), and with the float hodling the needle valve closed, place a straight edge across the centre of the of the float face (from front to back).

The centre section of the float must be between 0.5+1.0mm lower than the straight edge.

Bend the brass tab accordingly to set this gap.

just used your instructions. Worked a treat, thanks

i have got some question that some of you might be able to help me with also some pics that may help others
first is this crack in the brass collar/sleeve thing for the choke mechanism going to affect the operation of it?


second the SU exploded diagram in the box/kit shows no seal between parts 37 and 38 so how is flue held in this valve thing? i take it seal 44 is what keeps flue getting out completely





is this port/barb right with a reduce thing in it?


some pics of setting the float

How do you mean when replacing the choke spindle seal with the lip inwards?
Is it the tapered end towards the carb?
Also is it meant to just push up to the spindle or actually squeezed inside?
Is the spindle meant to move in and out slightly?

Just a pic of each way the seal can go as I'm not sure...

Attachments:

1.74mb

1.7mb

HI, this order to o'ring set its correct?

thks and regards from Chile

On 9th Jun, 2013 Turbo This.. said:

second the SU exploded diagram in the box/kit shows no seal between parts 37 and 38 so how is flue held in this valve thing? i take it seal 44 is what keeps flue getting out completely

nothing?