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Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

ok as most of you know i run a toyota starlet turbo engine in my mini.
i have just given it a good run and its started knocking altough i havnt investigated yet i suspect its gonna be big end bearings.
i need the cheapest and quickest option to get it back on road.
second hand turbo engines are about 5-600 quid. i can get a non turbo engine for 125 quid.

the only big difference is comp ratio the turbo is 8.2:1 and the n/a one is 9.6:1 the pistons cant be machined as there isnt enough matterial to remove. so is running the n/a engine as a turbo feesable in your opininions? or will it go bang?

gonna be doing about 600 miles in the lakes in june so need it to last at least that long lol

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


GaryOS

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Formally spanner181187

Dublin, Ireland

Do you know where the difference in CR is made? i.e. head, block, pistons

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea




On 3rd May, 2009 GaryOS said:
Do you know where the difference in CR is made? i.e. head, block, pistons


yes the only difference is the pistons. the turbo ones are flat and the n/a ones have a bulge on them. i could fit turbo pistons to the n/a engine but i dont have time to mess around to much at moment.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


James_H

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Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

i think if your sensible with the boost you should get away with it.


can the parts not be swapped around between the engines?

EDIT: you replied while i typed.

Edited by James_H on 3rd May, 2009.


gr4h4m

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Chester

Can you not swap the pistons? putting yours into the new engine?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


gr4h4m

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Chester

opps just seen your reply, posts from PaulS show the heat is a big problem..

Wacking great inter cooler, superplus and octane booster, and have an experiment for £125? The lakes is a tough challenge on any car...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


GaryOS

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Formally spanner181187

Dublin, Ireland

To be honest, I would just get the crank reground (if that is what the problem is) if you don't have time to swap parts. How easy are bearings to get hold off? A crank regrind with bearings will cost about the same as the NA engine and you know the history of the engine you have now.

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


PaulH

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Dublin Ireland

What he^ just said buying another engine could last a day or a year there is no telling

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

crank regrind and new bearings isnt a problem, suppose im just being lazy tho, lol.

i might get up early in the morning and take sump off, i cant take head off coz the sockets at work do,h

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

The biggest problem maybe the ECU running ignition timing with too much advance for the NA engine.

Otherwise, I would have thought that you could probably run up to 10 psi on a modern engine at 9.6:1 CR with a good intercooler properly mounted in a good air flow.

But the ECU may kill it.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


AWDmoke

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Western Australia

Don't waste your money on the NA engine. Big ends are a common problem especially if the engine has been sitting around for a while. Cheap enough to fix. Parts are easy to get here, not sure in the UK though.

On 24th Dec, 2008 Nic said:
eyh? im drubj but very confused##]#IU


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea




On 4th May, 2009 AWDmoke said:
Don't waste your money on the NA engine. Big ends are a common problem especially if the engine has been sitting around for a while. Cheap enough to fix. Parts are easy to get here, not sure in the UK though.


parts are easy enough to get going in garage sooon so will report findings

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

You can do this easily Carl!!


Id tell you to stop being lazy, but its probably more work to swap engines than flop the crank out


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

number 1 big end bearing had been spinning.

will need minimum crank grind (if grindable) new bearings and new con rod. but as im not sure what caused it (i suspect a con rod problem) and i can get a second hand engine for £400 i think ill go down this route for now because i need the cheapest and quickest option.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

My local machine shop will reclaim rods, may be worth looking into Carl.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland




On 4th May, 2009 Carl said:
number 1 big end bearing had been spinning.

will need minimum crank grind (if grindable) new bearings and new con rod. but as im not sure what caused it (i suspect a con rod problem) and i can get a second hand engine for £400 i think ill go down this route for now because i need the cheapest and quickest option.


could you not get an NA bottom end, and swap pistons across? (assuming the difference is in the pistons?)

incidently, 9.6:1 is fine for boost if the fueling and timing is ok, provided the pistons are strong enough.

and if you get a second hand engine, atleast treat it to some new bearings before fitting *wink* if these engines have a trait of running them.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea




On 4th May, 2009 evolotion said:



On 4th May, 2009 Carl said:

could you not get an NA bottom end, and swap pistons across? (assuming the difference is in the pistons?)
.


this is what i did last time and something has gone wrong. lol

the crank, bore and stroke are the same. the blocks are almost the same but do have some very minor differences. i converted a n/a block to turbo. the oil pumps are different and not interchangable so i had to go with the n/a one.

the crank was definately good and from memory i think there were only one size of big end bearing avalable from toyota so that would have been right (will check tomorrow) the only other thing i can think of could be lack of oil or faulty con rod (were second hand)

i think im gonna fit second hand engine and see how i go, the breakersyard says hell give me 3 mths warrenty Athough thatll probably mean fook all tbh lol

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland

Fair enough mate, id be lying if i said i knew alot about these lumps :) still, you could atleast split and inspect the "new" engine :) only cost you some selant for the sump and your time *wink* hope you get it sorted!

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

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