First time oil pressure
Turbo Mini Forums

Well im pretty excited!

I just cranked my engine over for the first time since starting the build 4 years ago, and within 10 seconds the oil pressure gauge shot up! Great feeling!

Now just to get it actually running haha.

Question though - it went right up to 50lb/sq" (psi right?) when I cranked it with the plugs out, is this high enough? I'm just juicing up the battery as we speak, but want to be sure its enough before I start the engine with a spark.

What pressure should I see with the plugs in/cold idle?

Thanks alot, good times :)

Edited by richminiturbo. on 11th May, 2009.

Thats sounds fine

well mine sits at around 70psi at cold idle and just over 40 when hot.

Edited by minimole23 on 7th May, 2009.

Hehe, nice one fella, yeah that sounds spot kidder, my drops between 35 and 40 when hot, although mine does run very hot due to the timing!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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Good gooood!

Just installing the megajolt software now, hopeully get it running a bit later!! :)

As above sounds fine. Good that you cranked it with the plugs out, gives the starter and battery an easier life.

Own the day

Good news. Feels great eh!

Good luck on the first start.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Thanks mate!

Arggh just fiddlling with the carb settings as the last thing needed and its started to rain.

I'm getting tense!

indeed! good luck,

50psi on the starter is great!

my current engine (with oil jets) would only just move the needle of the gauge on the starter (200rpm), but started it goues straight to 50+ if my rpm drops below about 600 the gauge falls like the R101.

when you fire it up, keep an eye on the gauge, if you have a ball bearing as a release valve chances are it will go up to about 80-90psi is soo chop the spring down til you get about 60, then let the engine get warm and see what it is.

Oki doki I will do!

I bought the ball bearing type and tried to use the shuttle spring, I think I can remember not being able to get it in so ended up buying the spring for the ball bearing anyway?

I'll keep an eye on it anyway as you say and see what goes on when its running..

i've not found a spring that comes with the ball to be any where near short enough yet,

expect to have to chop 1-2 coils off.

I juiced up the battery and it spun alot faster with the plugs out!

It went from 0-40, then down to 20 for some reason then blasted up to 60psi! Not sure why it fluctuated though.

Unfortunately my makeshift engine earth strap (jumper lead) pinged off as I was cranking, the braided turbo oil feed shorted on the bulkhead box and has now popped, leaking oil - bollocks.

Thats a set back, and theyre not really cheap to be honest :(.

I cranked it with the plugs in and you could hear the engine turn once or twice then ran out of puff, any ideas? My engine was a little tight to turn by hand when I was building it, hope its nothing to do with that :S

Edited by richminiturbo. on 7th May, 2009.

Fuck, just realised I paid £64 for that oil feed pipe.

shit luck monsieur!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

f'fing hate jump leads!!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

DOH!!

as you have the fittings, it may be cheaper to by a couple of compression fittings and some euroquip from rally design or think auto.

as my tyrbo is od fittings i made my own up from -4 hose and fittings, no ida what it cost me though.


wouldnt worry about the fluctuation at this stage, could be air.

As long as the engine got progressively tigher when building it, when adding pistons that that seems pretty normal for a fresh build. as long as it didn't lock up or anything.

Was pretty gutted when it happend, thought it just burnt the outer braid a smidge then saw oil weeping out..

Mini13 - sounds good, would it just be a case of chopping the split part out and joining it with compression fittings? Unsure what bits i'd need really, not up for paying another £64 to get another from avonbar, but I guess thats for the union into the block and all the fittings etc aswell.

minimole - yeah it did get progressively tighter to turn by hand as I built it. Theres a massive worry i've got thanks to minispeed who mixed the rod caps up and didnt number them for me. I did spend 3 hours trying different combos on each conrod and buttoned the rest of it up with the loosest turn-by-hand'ness I could. Was hoping the bearings would wear accordingly, taking up any slight miss fitment if you get me.

I was going to try jumping the car with my daily next to see if I could get it started when that oil feed popped.

Seriously gutted at the time, boo hoo :(

i was thinking make a whole new hose, but depending how much hose is spare you could hack into it and add a joint,

not seen hose to hose adaptors but you could use 2 female hose ends and one male - male adaptor.

assuming you have -4 hose...heres the thik auto parts (choice of ally or steel adaptor)

FBM1101 -4 hose to female -4 jic £5.60 ea

FBM2051 male-4 jic to male -4 jic (ally) £2.99 ea

FBM2751 male-4 jic to male -4 jic (steel) £2.28 ea

cut the hose and measure the bore (its fucked anyway) and i'll compare it to the hose i have.

Brilliant thanks alot!!

How would I go about attatching the "FBM1101 -4 hose to female -4" to either end of the braided hose after I cut the split bit out?

Does it just clamp like a garden hose joint?

I will cut it in half tomorrow and measure the ID, theres a place just down the road from me called hyphose you have all sorts of bits for air and fluid lines etc. so I might have a bimble down there tomorrow and see what they say.

Thanks for your help bud.

yep, similar to a garden hose, there a 3 parts, the outer nut, a sleve that goes between the braid and the hose inner, and the main body that slides up the hose inner.

there is a braided outer and a plastic (ptfe) inner, wrap a bit of tape round the hose (to stop it fraying when cut) cut through it preferably with somthing like a dremel with aa thin cutting disc, slide the outer nut part over the hose, remove the tape and splay the braid out slightly (so the sleve can slide between the braid and inner) level up the inner with a sharp knife/ scalpel an slide the sleve in by pushing against a bench or somthing, slide the body home and slip the outer nut up and tighten.

its easy when you see the actual parts, any probs let me know.

Sounds simple enough!!

The fixtures dont look too pricey so i'm feeling happier than earlier on thankyou!!

Will let you know how I get on.

i love them fittings, used quite a few now for brakes ,oil and fuel.

the -4 stuff is good for a working pressure of 2000+ psi

Went down to my local hose specialists and came out with this:



Came to a whopping £2.08p RESULT!

So i'm pretty happy now, off outside I go to try and get the thing started!! :)

Edit:

I found this earth strap, would you say its man-enough for the job? (block to bollockhead).

Edited by richminiturbo. on 8th May, 2009.

Dont forget the videos!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.