Mirage problems
Turbo Mini Forums

Im still struggling to get my mirage downpipe to clear my pot joint, anywho thats not the point of this post.

Has anyone else had the problem of their waste gate hitting the mirage turbo elbow when it fully opens?

mine seems to (marks on the inside of the elbow) after the car has been running.

Do you recon its going to be a problem?

Im gonna grind it down a little just to be safe

On my car, the turbo compressor housing (t25) hits the block in the lump above the fuel pump!

http://www.ktv.no/~pjb-ktv/

My downpipe also doesn't clear the potjoint on my Mirage kit. Contact Rich he should be able to sort you out.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

mine does the same, i'm not sure if it will cause the actuator any problems or not, i going to try and use an external wastegate i've got and seal up the internal wastegate, its all a long way of being fitted into the car though!!

its fine when it hits the exhaust, it opens plenty to give the result required

mine downpipe touched the pot joint too, i took my car down there and we sorted it, the guys made up a bracket which holds the pipe in the right position, im sending it back to them so they can copy it and supply the bracket with the kit

peterb-rotate the compressor housing some more, i had to do this although i am using a t2 but eventually you should find a solution

oh yeah and rich is back now, give him a call at the workshop or on his mobile, details on the website http://miragemotorsport.com .com . . . .com / . - . / . - . (come on, sing along)

Edited by Nic on 30th Oct, 2004.

my turbo hit the block as well, so i ground down the block!!! Will try mirarge again tomorrow.....

Guys.

The waste gate opens sufficently to allow excess gas to bypass the turbine. Our original elbow was fabricated in a way that allowed way more movement, but didn't flow as nice around the turbine exit. The current elbow was suggested by my manufacturer and i queried the the same point. But as he'd done this on loads of installations including some pretty trick cars i took his advice. If you had a problem you would see excessive boost at high outputs.

Quite a few of you seem to be having a problem with clearance on the pot joint. Got to say i cant quite put my finger on it. We sorted out the fit on greyprides car in no time. What sort of bracket have you guys made to locate the down pipe to the side diff casing ? Generally if the down pipe is left free it will be pressing fairly lightly against the cv. You should be able to apply fairly light pressure BY HAND to get arount 8-10mm of clearance and make bracket to suit. If you have to use more than light force your down pipe isn't in the correct position on the elbow. When Greyprides car arrived the down pipe was engaged to far onto the elbow. We had the elbow and pipe fitted with no mods to it in about an hour. As said above i'm getting the bracket back and am going to make some up and let all of you having trouble have one FOC. Or if you like and its practicle, your welcome to bring your car down to the workshop and we'll sort it for you.

Granted T2.5's can be tight, we never designed the manifolds to suit the T2.5. It's really an accident that you can just get them on. Our main aim was to make it fit with no bulkhead mods. We decided T2 was well up to the job, so thats what we made it all around. You'd be amazed at how much the turbine housings can vary in size. On the T2 and T2.5 with integral wastegate the housing usually crack between the the two gas outlet port. This means that the vast majoratory are binned by good rebuilders. Quite a few builders get there own turbine housings cast and these can vary in external dimensions from the original garret items. I sometimes have to Mill the back side of the turbine inlet flange to give clearance for nuts to go on, this is totally unrequired on garret castings. Aftermarket housings can generally have a thicker wall thickness generally. So when fitting these a bit tweeking may well be required. I have no control over what spec of turbos you guys get hold of, partic if you source second hand, so can't guarentee that the stud pattern is 100% correct.

Last one !!

Yep we've been out of the country racing. Got back about two weeks ago. After driving 3500 miles had to do 6months worth of books, a VAT return as we have just registered. Sort out stuff for a legal case. So i decided to sneek in a couple of weeks away while i can take a break(i'd go deff from the mrs if i didn't !!). I'm really sorry if you've not been able to get hold of us at the workshop. My mobile is pretty much turned on all the time. The nature of our business means we can be out of the workshop quite a bit at times.

Hope this has answered a few questions.

Please if you have a problem, let me know and we will try our best to remedy it for you.

Just another couple of points worth mentioning.

The down pipe need to be firmly supported with a suitable bracket (mentioned above). This needs to be fairly strong as it is subject to a lot of vibration. When i made greyprides i used some sheet steel and an exhause U clamp. Firstly out of the steel sheet (approx 1.5-2mm) i shaped a section so that it fitted neatly onto the side of the diff casing (bit of filing required). Then take the flat peice of your U clamp (the bit the nuts tighten against). Use this as the end of your bracket. With the downpipe held in the correct position (with engine steadies in place, recomend adjustable ones) and the peice of clamp in position, mark and cut the other end of your peice of sheet steel. I notched the end of the sheet so i had as long a weld as possible to give strength. Remember before welding to give the piece of the U clamp a thourough wire brushing pref on a grinder to remove any zinc from galvanising. After you have made this first weld add some extra peices of sheet (gusseting) welded to both your sheet and the clamp. With a bit of thinking in the planning and making stage this bracket turned out well ans is easy to remove from the exhaust. Greypride can you post a picture of said bracket ?

The other little thing to watch out for is to check that the thickness of the exhaust manifold flange (that goes against the cylinder head) matches the thickness of your chosen inlet manifold flange. Any differences must be compensated for by either making special ofset thickness washers or a better solution is to file or grind the inlet manifold to correct thickness (inlet usually always thicker being cast ali). Failure to do so will result in a poor seal around the exhaust gasket, causing loss of pressure to your turbine(seriously hot gasses escaping) and very rapid total failure of your gasket.

think thats it for now.

here we are (hope there not too big)

ahhh thats how you get to mini machine!

Team Racing

Cheers for all the advice Rich and for that late night chat on Friday night! (about the manifolds)

Anywho everything fits now and the mirage manifolds have only neeed slight mods to get them to fit a t25.

Drove the car for the first time, OMG i will never go back to t3!!!!