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wolfie

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Somewhere around Swindon

when you buy a worktop you get a couple of strips for the edges how/what is the best way to fix these on

Crystal Sound Audio said:

Why wolfie...you should have your name as Fuckfaceshithead !


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mlarj

41 Posts
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Plymouth

Used this on mine http://www.screwfix.com/prods/38770/Sealan...-Adhesive-250ml


Miniwilliams

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Proven 200+bhp & Avon Park 05,06,07 Class D 3rd place

As above. coat both edges with this, let it go touch dry and then push in place. You may find you have to coat the work top with 2 coat as it might sock up the first one.

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
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Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Haven't had a kitchen worktop quicky for years *Rofl!*

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nutter driver

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Not very sunny swanage

mlarj is right..... thats what we always used to use!

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Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Yep,

I just did one (bathroom but same stuff)

Years ago the strips had a "hot melt" glue on the back so I was will p***ed off when the stuff I bought two weeks ago said "use EvoStick"....

And, as Miniwilliams says, the worktop cut edge really does soak it up - and mine were cut on the really big machine at B&Q so were well smooth to start with...

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turbo hogster

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stowmaket suffolk

unfochantly the new water based evo is crap compared to the old solvent based stuff but is ok if you put one coat on both sides and let dry then add a second coat let dry then stick

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas


Miniwilliams

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Proven 200+bhp & Avon Park 05,06,07 Class D 3rd place

yes hoggy, we had HIGH times when i was working on site when we had the real stuff!

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Surely not more water based crap like the new 2K paint - the tin I used 2 weeks ago was bought about a year ago (from Screwfix) and was still the "real" stuff...

I'd better go and sniff what's left of it to make sure 8-)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Ollie

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Swindon

if its laminate what the guys do at work is use adhesive glue, roller it on so there's no bubbles and then iron over it (material between the laminate and iron)

On 2nd Mar, 2008 joeybaby83 said:
neil_g, with all due respect, your the worse salesman on TM since rob_h tried to sell his own ass


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

or bin it and put on the aluminium end caps.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



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matty

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8297 Posts
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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

The REAL adhesive you need is PUR, but this is hot melt and cures with moisture, so difficult to store/work with, but sticks like shit to a blanket!

MDF's are usually not too bad with some kind of hi-tack adhesives, but chip board is a PITA as the surface requires bucket loads more glue to plug the gaps.

You're best going for a semi-hard setting glue rather than fully hardening as these tolerate the expansion/contraction better. Also make sure the wood is very dry, it can be dry to the touch but once the adhesive is applied it can bubble up and cause you no end of trouble! Some kind of heater left near it for a couple of hours would do.

Edited by matty on 18th May, 2009.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

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