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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Primary gear thrust washer

Mr Mini

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184 Posts
Member #: 346
Advanced Member

Portsmouth

Hi,

I have a problem with my primary gear end float. I purchased this thurst washer:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...HRUST%20WASHE...

which is 112-114. However when installed cant turn the primary gear by hand. The C clip etc is in good condition. There is a thinner one:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...M%20998%20110...

Which is 110-112. However it says for a 998cc. Am I ok to use this, or should I try and reduce the thickness of the 112-114 I purchased not long ago? If so how would I go about this?

I would prefer to reduce the thickness of the 112-114 if its acceptable to do so, seeing as they are almost 30 quid new!!!

Thanks.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


johnK

1425 Posts
Member #: 690
Post Whore

Norfolk

There are lots of different 1275 ones on the MS site- the 998's won't fit, while you are at this stage does your primary gear have the "floating" bush in it - the one under the "teeth", if it doesn't its a very worthwhile mod if you are one the phone to minispares - around £20.

If Carling made Mini engines
it would probably be like this one!


Mr Mini

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184 Posts
Member #: 346
Advanced Member

Portsmouth

Hi yes I have the floating bush. My only option therefore is to reduce the thickness, as their arnt any thinner then 112-114 for 1275s and above.

EDIT - any advice on how I modify the 112-114 correctly. Is this an unusual thing to have to?

Edited by Mr Mini on 11th Jun, 2009.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

I thinned mine down on a bit of 800-1000 grit wet and dry layed on a flat surface with a bit of water.

keep measuring it with verniers (or idealy a mic) to check the thickess is the same all the way round.

i had to take loads off mine, to the point where i had to re file the crossed oil grooves back in.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Don't take this the wrong way, but was it in the right way around when you took the measurement ???

The internal diameter is radiused on one face but not the other, so only sits correctly on the end of the crank one way round.

I've never found one too thick....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

good point made by Rod, its easily done.

also if you have an old one thats too thin pop it on and measure the gap with feelers, then mesure the ring to give the size of the gap.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



stefaz

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1252 Posts
Member #: 1656
Post Whore

stoke-on-trent

don't put it on the wrong way!!

On 23rd Oct, 2009 sim_ou_nao said:

eu gosto de mamas = i like boobs


Mr Mini

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184 Posts
Member #: 346
Advanced Member

Portsmouth

Hi I put it in with the chamfered edge on the inside - butting up against the crank not the primary gear? Is this correct?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


advantage998

458 Posts
Member #: 1840
Senior Member

Kings Lynn, Norfolk

Yup to match the rolled edge on the crank.

I've cheated a little bit befor by using a worn c clip backing plate. And as said its pretty easy to thin the shims down with wet and dry.


Mr Mini

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184 Posts
Member #: 346
Advanced Member

Portsmouth

Bugger will have to get sanding then. Cheers.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

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