Bulkhead box
Turbo Mini Forums

When fitting a bulkhead box,why do you cut the bulkhead at a angle on the right hand side?

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959

To give clearance around the actuator & air intake pipe.

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because the actuator!?

Pedro Silva

http://miniciados.blogspot.pt/

Thanks lads.

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959

above is a good pic!

imagine if you fitted one of those billet ally actuators from avonbar....

Or you could just weld on a 3 inch extension to the standard Avonbar bulkhead box as I did so that it didn't matter what dia actuator you could use.

Gives me about 1.5 inch of clearance all round.

Couple of build pics attached.

Richard.

Attachments:

1.63mb

1.58mb

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

That's very tidy ! :)

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Very nice Richard.....

What is the heat insulation (reflective) material you used to line the two boxes and is there another layer of something else behind it ???

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Is the box riveted or just the insulation?

Welded in the box this mornin,Looks like it was always there.

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959

Rod / Vegard.

I don't believe in riveting something like this - you're asking for trouble with structural strength and I believe in doing things properly, especially when it's for myself.

The box is seam welded then strengthened on the back with a backing plate, then welded again to add back alot of stiffness.

I made up a three inch extension to the standard Avonbar box by cutting the end off it and inserting a tailored section then welding this lot back up again.

It means I had to weld in a new take-off for the new RH engine steady (when viewed from the front) and so I used three 5/16 UNF studs, welded into 6 mm plate about 4"x2" to spread the load, then seam welded this lot to the bulkhead alongside where the wiper motor sits. It's a bit overkill really but I recall a mate managed to rip his out of the cross member and I didn't fancy that happening to me. You can see the studs in the photo's above. Has worked a treat for me as it takes a standard adjustable Minispares RH engine steady.

Once welded into position, I then lagged the complete engine bay side of the turbo box (and also the Weber box) with 8mm fireproof aluminised reflective glass sandwhich , sticky back one side, ali foil the other - I conveniently acquired this from a well known Gas Turbine manufacturer for a few beers. We use it in the Navy with our marine GTs. Still have a 30 x 30 sheet of the stuff which I use when doing plumbing as it makes a great heat shield whilst soldering copper joints.

This lot is then covered in thin (1 mm) dimpled Ali sheet which you can buy from B&Q. It's pop rivetted with st.steel rivets through the lagging material into the box. The rivets come through into the drivers dash area where each is sealed off with Sikaflex 221. I didn't want any fuel leaking through the rivet heads.

The ali sheet is alot more durable as a surface than the foil covered sticky heat reflective stuff and guards against damage if snagging with a spanner doing the bloody exhaust clamp and other crap down the back of the bay.

Hope this helps.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

Always helps to modify the bottom of the box so it slopes, otherwise its a damn water trap.

On 1st Jul, 2009 Jason G said:
Always helps to modify the bottom of the box so it slopes, otherwise its a damn water trap.

Own the day

Thankyou Mr Joshua

Nice install turbominivanman, very tidy.

On 1st Jul, 2009 Mr Joshua said:

On 1st Jul, 2009 Jason G said:
Always helps to modify the bottom of the box so it slopes, otherwise its a damn water trap.

Nice touch noted

Thats actually a very good igea with the slope .I guess thats another job to do at the weekend

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959

Heard a rumour it was a good idea.

I think you could be on to something there

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959

Might try it one day! lol

Be aware that cutting the bulkhead on the right hand side (viewed from the front of the car) is not an option on left hand drive cars. You need that part of the bulkhead for the clutch master cylinder and the brake pedal assembly (when using a late type remote servo) or the brake master cylinder itself.

You will be able to fit a avonbar alu actuator without the mod to the bulkhead, though you will need to tilt the engine forward a bit.

If you need any pics of a bulkhead box for a left hand drive car let me know, i´ll upload them this weekend.

Any other tips for me

Bending the rules and ruling the bends,Since 1959