Which Oil
Turbo Mini Forums

im using valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 oil


what do you all use?

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

Millers Ctv is popular I believe.
Shane

I've heard that KY Jelly is pretty goog.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Any opinion on Comma Oil?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

It's def good for fitting windscreens!

I use the cheapest available, and change it often. most of it ends up on the drive anyway

Just follwed a similar thread on a different forum and the general opinion was that provided it has an API rating of SJ or above and you change it regularly, ( and frequently) its not too important,Having said that, Minis need more than just engine lubrication and turbo,d ones do seem to give their trans a hard time.

oils. Big subject, too much for a short post. In the race Mini I most recently used Valvoline VR1, will do a teardown soon, hope to find no problems. In street Minis, I don't like modern API oils, I wish they still sold SF rated oils which had a decent amount of ZDDP for the old cams and the intersmashing gears of our gearboxes, modern oils don't have it. Look for a decent JASO/MA rated oil, or use a zinc additive with modern oils.

all the above is fine for the engine but the millers ctv is the best which protects the gearbox better especially the baulk rings and layshaft at high torque out put

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

what do people think about running 15w50 fully synthetic?

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

It wont protect your gearbox.

Use Millers CVT. It's specifically formulated for use in combined engine and gearbox applications.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Any thoughts on this oil. Apparently has ZDDP additive in it. Is also a fair bit cheaper than millers

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=180302601910

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power

Found this PDF about the Castrol XL.

Any opinions? Would this be a good alternative to CTV?

http://www.rgracing.co.uk/TDS/Classic%20XL%2020w50.pdf

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Oils are an interesting debate to get into.

You can get swayed by the "modern is best" and always fall for "forward thinking". I'm not so sure.

Coca Cola test surely.....

Due to the cam followers and gearbox, I'd want something with an exceedingly high film strength. I wouldn't want anything that could potentially react with bearings, glue in the diff plates, seals, etc. I'd also want nothing that could solidify or centrifuge out.

Do synthetics do that? Does it make a blind bit of difference? Synthetic oils, rather than your "range of molecules with similar boiling points" have more of a predictable behaviour when heated, they can have higher film strengths due to synthetic "tangly" molecules rather than a mix of long molecules and tangly ones. I suppose that synthetics are better in this department.....So, under mega welly in first gear, your oil film has parted....what is left is irrelevant of synthetics or not, it's down to the additive pack.... MoS2 and ZDDP are mucky half jobs, but they stop metal to metal at least....even though I gather it can impregnate bearing metal....which consequences may be purely theoretical.

I'd rather stay away from mineral oil as in my opinion, additives are a compromise and the car doesn't get used that much anyway.

Castor has O containing groups in the molecule, (which are discreet and not a range-so it's like synthetic in that respect). These cause mega high film strengths and mean they are great for our sort of engines.....

However, they are fucking pricey, (then again, so are my cogs) and more importantly, they can form blow up products, including acids and gums. The acids eat bearings and the gums block stuff up.

The solution to this is to run an evacusump, which keeps all the water out of the oil (reduced pressure=reduced Bp) and dry oil does not allow any acid stuff to be soluble.

I wonder if any castor oil has a soap in it to keep the water dispersed to stop gum formation....in my opinion, it would be better off without it.

When I get my engine finally finished....(it's still on the bench/boxes), I'll use Castor.

Previously, I've just gone with shite and replacing it "when it looks like it needs doing"....which is a good enough test IMO.

Anyway, just my 2p.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.