F'n Hammerite
Turbo Mini Forums

Bought a Tin of this agents my better judgment from my local auto factor. I wanted a brush on type hard paint for the inside floor of the racer. The guy (in his forties taught heed know what he was on about !how wrong was I) told me this was the only stuff for the job and Id never look back.

spent the last 2 hours trying to paint the blasted stuff on. went back to it 20 mins later to see it had all gone see trough so instead of a nice black floor I now have a mix between mid grey and see trough hammerite black.

THIS STUF IS POXIE.

so its 20 past 12 I have now missed last orders and I have made no progress on the car apart from covering my floor in poxie crap.
rant over I'm going to bed.
:(

ho and my pocket is 20 quid lighter for the brush tin of Poxieright and thinners.

Edited by PaulH on 29th Jul, 2009.

Your black paint has gone see through? Are you sure it is just not a gloss finish and you are looking at reflection?

I have never had this while using hammerite, although I admit it has it good and bad points, but if used correctly it is fine.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I'm not a big fan of hammerite I have to say.

i've used it on subframes, floors etc etc and never had a problem with it. did you use it straight out of the tin of mix it with something?

I painted my back subframe with hamerite with no prob's.

Its usually quick and easy to use because it goes over everything and is recognised as a bodge job because of this. It also chips very easily.

Ill get pic later today. I wont lie to you guys I’m no painter just need something to do the job and this didn’t I followed to Instructions on tin and tbh the results are appalling the coverage was crap half a brush stroke and I had to re load the brush. It stunk and is still not dry nearly 12 hours later :(

Do you have any of the original sound deadening bitumen stuff left on the floor ??? I would assume not if it's a racer but if there is any still there, or even any residue left, the solvent in the hammerite will react with it.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

nope Rod I chiped all that off and sanded to floor back to metal then coated it in Hammerite "special" under coat and then a top coat of smooth hammerite black.

That is interesting I have never seen hammerite undercote. The secret with hammerite is to put it on thick and directly onto metal.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

this is it Ben the guy I baught the paint off said I need this or the paint would not take :(
http://www.hammerite.com/ie/products/ps_sp...als_primer.html

"Promotes adhesion for metal finish paints on non-rusting metal surfaces such as aluminium, galvanized and stainless steel, chrome, brass and copper. "

Don't see steel on that list. It might be that the under coat is not designed for steel and has reacted.

That would not be a very good show if the paint reacts with its own primer !

I meant the primer not setting as it should as it's not on the metal it was inteded to be used on, then reacting with the paint

TBH AP I have no idea what I do know is I painted the engine with dulux metal primer then one coat of dulux smooth black, It looks prfect I used half the paint and it was dry in 6 hours:)

I've always just rubbed the metal down for it to key too, never any under coat or primer.

I painted the whole inside of my mini with hammerite - worked really well imho.

I've had this problem before. I think that the tin I brought was either really old or not mixed correctly at manufacture. Use a chop stick and give it a really good stirring. I found that good paint had settled to the bottom of the tin.

Hammerite normally needs a really good stir before use, as it is normally like treacle at the bottom of the tin and like water near the top.

yeah, a ood shake/stir lways helps, but tbh i cant stand hammerite ither

I used that spray on 'smoothrite' stuff on a set of alloys years ago, turned out horrible...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

i use hammerite on load of stuff, its brilliant, i have had exactly the problem you talk about but only on nice new shiny metal which is where the undercoat comes into play.

i'm sure if you give it a good stir and a 2nd or 3rd coat it will look mint. its not sold as a one coat paint afterall.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

Hammerite sticks best to poor surfaces on a good surface it can be a bit of a pain.

I paint my blocks with it never had an issue (red of course).

Own the day

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

A mate of mine many moons ago building a marlin kit car taught me a trick with hammerite.

He said mix the hammerite, let it go off then then paint black gloss over it. The stuff like you use on steel work. The flexibility aspect of the gloss paint means it is less susceptible to chipping. Paint chips because its usually too thick or because of heat/expansion (rust?). Seemed to work for him several years on.

Also some mates of mine at TVR nearby confirmed that too when they powder coated my old subframes in their powder coating bay, saying that when they powder coated the chassis, they were better if they only put on lighter coats, because of chipping problems on heavier coats.

Cheers,

D