turbo head
Turbo Mini Forums

hello. i have just had the head off my 1275 turbo and need info??? i have been told that i need to have the seats of the exhaust valves changed so that it runs better on unleaded fuel? do i have to do this?? also do i need to get it skimmed when it goes back on? if i do send it to the engineer to be converted shall i get it ported and polished and get some of the meat taken out from the combustion chamber to reduce the compression?? many thanks for any help. i am doing all this on a budget so any work i can do my self would be great. Hugo

Having the head converted to run on unleaded will not make the car run any better, all it does is prolonges the life of the valve seat as the steel hardened inserts will not recess like the standard cast iron on the head eventually does.
Does the head need a skim, is it warped ? Do you need the compression lowering ? Are you planning on running more boost ?

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Knock Knock....
Whos there?
Benros!
Benros who?
The Benros you need to tak to about your head thats who!
Who?
Me thats who!
You?
Yes me!
Benros?
Yes Benros.

Own the day

The head doesnt looked warped. i would like the option of running more boost but i want it to be realiable ish!! I have just started lapping in the valves and they do have the steel inserts. thanks for your help phil

Seconded

Why did you take it off in the first place ?

As an indication of an absolute minimum cost 'standard' option of the price of a set of stem seals, some grinding paste and a gasket, and assuming light usage of say 3000 miles per year with no extra boost over standard when you've got it running again, why not just decoke it, re-lap the already heat hardened (and memory set) valve seats back in with grinding paste and a stick, fit new top hat type stem seals to all 8 valves (the ones with spring assisted lip seals) and reassemble.

Then when running the car, use 97 Ron or 100 Ron unleaded with an anti valve seat recession and octane boost fuel additive like Castol Valvemaster Plus.

If you're worried about head warpage, buy a straight edge and feeler gauges and look up how to check on TM or in a Haynes. Assuming ok, then leave it alone. Make sure you use the latest Rover head gasket with bonded oilway seal and use a little extra torque on the head studs, say 60 lbft instead of 55.

Total cost about £30 in materials assuming you do all the labour.

Or, go the modified, gas flowed, unleaded route.

Bob is your Mothers brother and all that .....

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

turbo phil and turbominivan have said it for you unless you want a hi spec head ?

i took off the head coz the diff had a big hole in it and the oil pump was cracked. I wanted to know if the engine was any good?? i bought it as seen with cage for £200

Good price.

So is it any good or are you still debating ?

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

the diff and box is dead. the rest is fine

the head looks fine. it seems to be flat. the engine was taken out coz the gears on the diff pin blew the diff and box to bits with shrapnel. i will try and get pics on???

That's great Superman.

Remember Vegard, to some people the world is still flat !.

Wouldnt the block get a bit of damage if the gearbox was destroyed by shrapnel?

In boost we trust

Sounds like the usual diff existing through the back of the box, leaving lots of bits of diff, CWP and case inside the sump.