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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Roughing out weber settings

joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

Picking back up on an old project I lost enthusiasm in a few years ago, so be get doing a bit of trial and error on my 1380, 649, 11.75:1cr motor before taking it over to a rolling road (we still dont have one here on the isle of man!!)

Now talking AFRs, Its ticking over @ 13.2:1 ish (1400 rpm), with 13 degrees advance from an aldon red dizzy (once i have it on the road ill stick the megajolt on with tps)

Now I just was hoping people can advise on what AFRs to expect on the move.

When you punch the accelerator, the pump jets will obviously throw extra full in, so how rich should I expect it to blip to?

Also, on a side note, its ticking over @ 1400rpm (anything less and it starts to splutter and eventually dies), i dont want to advance the ignaition any further as is statically timed to over full advance of 32 already... anyone got any tips for getting it lower, or is this just what i should expect on of this cam/cr combo?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



PaulH

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Main jest of 180 with an F2 emulsion tube and a 170 Air on the main circuit

50F8 idle circuit should be dam close

AFR on full beans of around 12:1 dot pay any attention to the AFR on idle that cam will have it all over the place

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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MikeRace

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Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

Mine idles quite high so i would imagine yours would do the same.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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joeybaby83

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Cheers guys

If say i were to floor the throttle open, is the idea to get the pump jets to give enrichment to around 12:1, then the main circuit 'catchs up' and gives the constant 12:1?

or will the enrichment just chuck a big slug of fuel in to help the transition to full load and i not worry my little head about it?

cheers

joe

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



PaulH

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I think the latter is the case,

It will only be for a split second anyway once the main circut reads rite the rest should follow

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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joeybaby83

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well, now its on the road i need to address the fuelling


On 7th Sep, 2007 danboy in another post said:
Joey, where is your lambda sensor fitted? If it's just stuffed up the tailpipe it could be giving you a false reading.
Assuming for now that thye reading is correct I would suggest you use some richer idle jets as these control both idle and progression up to around 3,000 rpm. I would suggest 55f8's as a start and set the idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns open.
It would be helpful if you could post up all your carb settings.
I think you will find your timing will come back to a sensible figure once you have the carb idle circuit set reasonably accuratly.
you should be able to achieve a 1,000 to 1,100 rpm idle speed with a reasonable progression despite the cam and CR.
once you have the idle somewhere near you can alter the progression by varying the idle jet fx number after the 55 to make the progression richer or leaner. One point to remember is that the fx numbers bear no logical relationship to one another.
The other option, bearing in mind you may not have access to a range of idle jets, is to buy a set of micro drills to alter the jets. The fx number refers to the size of the air bleed hole in the side of the idle jet.
The idle mixture screw should not be open more than 1.5 turns if it is you will need to swap the idle jet up a size but 55 should be a good starting point.
I cannot emphasise enough how important the idle/progression adjustment is, if done correctly it will make the car so much more driveable.
When checking the progression do not floor the pedal just move it very slowly and this will stop the accelerator pump circuit from effecting the correct readings.
if it cuts out lean solder up the air hole and drill smaller, if it bogs down rich open it up.
Hope this helps and when you get round to setting the accelerator pump circuit and main circuit give me a shout.
Going from lean to rich the following list of fx numbers may be useful:-
F3.F1.F7.F5.F2.F4.F13.F8.F11.F14.F9.F12.F6.
Regards
Dave


at the weekend when i took it out for a blast i noted the AFRs as:

idle is 13:1
under full throttle its at 12/12.5ish:1 (which isnt too far off)
cruising at part throttle its at 13:1
on overrun with the throttle shut off 14:1


The carb set up was as follows:

Choke - 38mm
Aux Venturi - 4.5 (i think, couldnt be arsed taking it out to check today!)
Idle Jet - 60F8, idle screws 4.5 turns out, running rough
Mains - 165
Air correctors - 175
Emulsion Tubes - F2
Pumps - Not sure, does it really matter as long as it doesnt stumble when you floor it?

Backs playing up a little, so today just tried to get the idle running alright before coming home a bit early

From memory, i thought you should roughly aim for an idle of between 16:1 to 13:1 (but the leaner the better)

ive got a fair few jets to play with (no 50F8's unfortunatley paul, but plenty around)

First i tried some 50F9's, (im ignoring the Fx's for now, as i simply want to get the tickover about right), i got this to idle at about 1700rpm at roughly 15:1 with the idle screws about 3 turns out

as the idle screws were quite some way out, i figured that a slightly richer jet might be better (correct me if im wrong)

So whacked in some 55F8s and with the idle screws 2 turns out it sits nicely at 1500rpm at 16:1

so i think ill stick with these for now (got some 55F9s to try if the transition to full throttle needs more uumph) and not really fussed about lowering the idle speed any more as it still runs, but starts to stutter and shudder once you dip down to 1400 or less, might be able to get it lower once megajolt is on?

once me backs a bit better, ill take it for a few joyrides to see what its like

one thing im still a bit unsure about is the AFRs when i shut off, going down a long hill last weekend, i completely shut off, and all the way down it was still showing 13/14:1 which i would think is way way too rich?

How can i get this leaner?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



BadgerBaiter

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Brighton

Think I ll be going down this route with my 1293 + Weber 45.
I have a Megajolt v.4 MAP though - is it necessary to convert it to TPS?
When I looked into it last I kept reading differing opinions (surprise surprise) - just wanted your opinion on it.
Apologies for ninja-ing in.
:)

http://www.jolyonway.com


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

No problem,

my opinion is....dunno, havent got one ha

in short, i was going to use my map mj on this, with a take off from each inlet runner, tee'd together into a fuel filter to buffer fluctuations/pulses, then to the mj map sensor

From what ive gathered, this is the preferable way to do it as map is a true reflection or better representation of the load on the engine

but a tps mj came up for sale on here, imo its easier to bolt on without pissing about tapping into the inlets, so im gonna use that one on this, save the map mj for the 998 turbo when/if that ever gets done (im a slow mover lol), and follow this guys tps install:

http://www.cate1.co.uk/megajolt/installation.php

ordered a ford tps today off ebay, so will try and get it polished off this week, still learning my way around megajolt though, and this laptop doesnt like talking to it :(

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



BadgerBaiter

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Brighton

Ah ok.
The map method you describe is what I had read before.
I didnt realise you were doing it just because you got a cheap tps *wink*
Anyway, god knows how long it will be before l get access to a certain pile of money,and hence a turbo mini, so I may as well use my MAP thingymabob.
I shall follow this however :)

http://www.jolyonway.com


Tom Fenton
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I'm not sure why you want to get the idle so lean, to be honest I just set the idle mixture to wherever the car runs most happily, anywhere around 14.7 (stoich) or leaner should be good enough to pass an emissions test if needed.
So really just set it to where it idles most happily and don't worry about trying to make it too lean.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

no emissions or mot here, but i just had it in my head that the leaner the better for some reason?


im still very much learning about carb set up, so this is will be an interesting time for me

*edit* whilst im here, better just check im on the right track

For cruising, im looking for stoich
Full throttle should be about 12.5:1 yes?
And what should it read when i shut off? anything? or should it just lean right off the wideband (i.e 17+)?

Cheers

Joe

Edited by joeybaby83 on 10th Mar, 2010.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland

idle is a funny thing to tune , especially on a cammy engine, just start lean and gradually richen it up till it sounds right, AFR numbers etc are usually a load or crap due to overlap.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


PaulH

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As denis says stay from tuning idle afrs it means nothing on and engine with a big cam. Aim for 12:1 when you nail it and then get it to a rolling road for the fine tuning

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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