Clutch arm clevis pin
Turbo Mini Forums

I think across the pond you guys might have a different term for it, but the clevis pin that holds the clutch arm(pre-verto) to the flywheelhousing, what is the easiest way to get that out? If it weren't thirty years old(yes it's the original clutch) I imagine it would come right out, but it is the original, and it is securely held in place, but not by a split/cotter pin, by rust. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what did they do to fix it?

-James

just drift it out after soaking with some penetrating fluid. it will come out.

make sure the clevis is well supported, a partially open vice would suffice to allow the pin to be drifted out.

Clevis pin is UK too...... :)

I assume it's rusted into the arm, ie, the clevis pin rotates in the alloy housing when you move the arm.

If so, release oil, heat, release oil, heat until...

Be very carefull trying to drift it out, the alloy is quite fragile so you need to support it with something like a tube whose inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the clevis pin head.

Good luck.

EDIT - beaten to it.....

Edited by Rod S on 29th Aug, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

It's still in situ. The cars my daily driver, and I figured while I was getting the head fixed I would replace the clutch mechanicals.

-James

It is rusted to the arm. And I buggered up a finger and a forearm on the damned thing. :) Minis, got to love 'em.

-James

problem is it always gets put in the easiest way, which makes it the hardest to get out!

i would leave well alone but keep giving it a dose of fluid. it will work its way loose, hopefully when you need it out!

although you say your replacing the clutch mechanicals? as in the clutch itself? if so the wok will come off anyway to make this job easier.

the only other way to make it easier is grind the head off so you can drift it through. but then it means you need to get/make a new one.

OK, is the split pin end at the back (downwards) or front (upwards) ???

If at the back, ie, the clevis pin needs to come out forwards, use a very short tube over the head of the clevis pin (a suitable size socket will do) and a "G" clamp.

If it's the other way around it's harder...

Or take the WOK (the whole cover plate) off and do it in a vice if you don't want to risk damage - not easy, but I guess parts like that are expensive over there if you break it....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I'm just replacing the stuff outside the clutch, the arm, clevis pins, push rod and slave cylinder. It is fit so that the split pin is inserted nearest the bulkhead. I think I may end up grinding it down and doing it that way. I was just hoping someone had a better idea, because that's going to take a while, my compressor took a dump.

-James

in the uk, if you buy new clevis pin, slave and arm they tend to wear out in a short time as there all patern parts and made of crap