Page:
Home > General Chat > Blade? type ARB thickness/material.

James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

I am going to using a rear ARB in my car. I'm going for a blade type (if i'm right that's the type with tube welded between the turrets with blades coming off it and then link rods through the floor to the radius arms?).

I'm in need of some information about what diameter of tube, and what wall thickness to make it out of. Also what material.

I'm placing an order for lots of T45 soon and its looking like i'm likely to have so spare. Would this be appropriate in the right dimensions?

I know it depends on a few things like vehicle weight etc but i just need a starting point really. It will have some adjustment like normal. Its going to be rather light on the back end also if that makes a difference.

Cheers, James


Vegard

User Avatar

7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

I was adviced to buy the KAD one. That one is a blade type. Not sure if KAD makes different blades though.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



G13B

User Avatar

667 Posts
Member #: 1376
Post Whore

clock tower with a sniper rifle

Sellholms Sweden sells blade ARB kits, you rotate the blades to set the stiffness, end mounting point is the same, they can be made in-car adjustable to

for some inspiration

http://sellholm.se/

they are under "övrigt" and then "krängningshämmare" fore pics/parts

Edited by G13B on 1st Sep, 2009.

internationally known as "big" swede


Paul S

User Avatar

8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

James,

Dont weld the tube to the turrets, the tube needs to be able to rotate.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


G13B

User Avatar

667 Posts
Member #: 1376
Post Whore

clock tower with a sniper rifle

Found some pics of my "dream" setup,






internationally known as "big" swede


Vegard

User Avatar

7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 1st Sep, 2009 G13B said:
Sellholms Sweden sells blade ARB kits, you rotate the blades to set the stiffness, end mounting point is the same, they can be made in-car adjustable to

for some inspiration

http://sellholm.se/

they are under "övrigt" and then "krängningshämmare" fore pics/parts


I thought they only did Gearboxes...

Here's the direct link:

http://sellholm.se/article_group.asp?id=29&g=6

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand




On 1st Sep, 2009 Paul S said:
James,

Dont weld the tube to the turrets, the tube needs to be able to rotate.


Time to engage the brain. I've been rather stupid, of course it needs to rotate so you still have suspention! IDIOT!

Its the twisting of the tube with the different suspension hieghts that creats the anti-roll effect.

I need to have another think and get some inspiration from those pics before i go and end up solid mounting my rear suspension. Prize tit.

:$

Cheers for the links. Inpiration time. But still thinking about tube dimensions?


Vegard

User Avatar

7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

You can choose. Either use the bar as a twisting medium, or use a solid bar and have the arms be adjustable.

Edited by Vegard on 1st Sep, 2009.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

Confused. I'm in need of more research i think.


Jimster
Site Admin

User Avatar

9407 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

I like the idea of the twisted bar, but all that lot looks bloody heavy

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

How is yours done Jim?

OOOO i'm sure i've seen a pic of Paul and Sturgeos mig set-up somewhere..searching time!


Paul S

User Avatar

8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland



I didn't realise that the torsion tube was quite so large.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

Yeah, just been looking at that in the other thread Paul.

How does it pivot as it goes through those plates by the turrets?


sturgeo

857 Posts
Member #: 1778
Post Whore

Northants

On 1st Sep, 2009 James_H said:

How does it pivot as it goes through those plates by the turrets?


hmm that might explain why its so stiff
i shall go and investigate


Paul S

User Avatar

8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

The tube does not go through the plates by the turrets. The tube stops short and must run on a bearing fixed to the plate.

I'll try and get a photo, but the cars on the ramp with the rear end against the window, so a bit tricky.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


sturgeo

857 Posts
Member #: 1778
Post Whore

Northants

I've just had a look, the best way i can describe it is that there is a tube bolted between the turrets and then the arb is like a sleave and pivots on the tube.

I think the old boys just gone out to take some pictures that can explain it better.


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

that setup looks pretty solid how much twist does it give?

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Paul S

User Avatar

8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland



I still reckon that there is just a bearing in the end.

Needs some paint though.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


sturgeo

857 Posts
Member #: 1778
Post Whore

Northants

On 1st Sep, 2009 Brett said:
that setup looks pretty solid how much twist does it give?


Very little i would imagine, when we are moving the car it kicks up a wheel on the slightest surface inbalance *happy*


James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

I see. Very interesting.

Because i want to have a "strut brace" type arrangement between the turrets (no bulkhead) this set-up might take abit of fiddling to get in. And may be alittle heavy.

Im thinking a 1" T45 "strut brace welded between the towers.

Then a blade arrangement similat to this:





Because of having no bulkhead and a flat boot floor i can mount this inside bolted to the floor and then drop the link rods through the floor like in you set-up.

Opinions?

Edited by James_H on 1st Sep, 2009.


andywaller

User Avatar

646 Posts
Member #: 1826
Post Whore

Maldon Essex

have a look in my build I think I have just made exactly what you are thinking of.

that twisting blade type is used on lola race cars and a certain metro turbo challange car I have had looked under.




cossierick

User Avatar

3074 Posts
Member #: 1348
Post Whore

wakefield West Yorks

Where did you find this?? is it just a universall one.

I think ul need a brace across the car aswell james, dont use the arb to do that aswell as control roll.

As far as i was aware, the shorter the drop links the better so if it can be mounted under the car it may be better.

Kad do two different types, one for a rear beam (the one i have) or one for a subframe. the first being round bar (3/4")dia and the subby one is designed to fit to the rear and face forward but has nice detatchable blade ends.

Rick


On 1st Sep, 2009 James_H said:
I see. Very interesting.

Because i want to have a "strut brace" type arrangement between the turrets (no bulkhead) this set-up might take abit of fiddling to get in. And may be alittle heavy.

Im thinking a 1" T45 "strut brace welded between the towers.

Then a blade arrangement similat to this:





Because of having no bulkhead and a flat boot floor i can mount this inside bolted to the floor and then drop the link rods through the floor like in you set-up.

Opinions?


Rob H

4314 Posts
Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

On 1st Sep, 2009 Paul S said:


I still reckon that there is just a bearing in the end.

Needs some paint though.


It this yet another use for an idler bearing by chance?

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


James_H

User Avatar

3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

Rick, i got that from www.alfaholics.com through google, search blade anti roll bar.

Its for some form of alfa believe it or not *happy*

I've decided that im now going to use a brace bar aswell as a ARB and not try to combine it.

If i could mock up a drawing i would but my art skills are about as much use as a horse mating an ant.

Its basically going to be a brace between the Towers, and then, bolted to the floor bellow that (could easily be underneath, saves having holes in the floor. Although means the car would have to be jacked up to adjust.), an ARB very similar to the one off alfaholics just made to fit my car obviously.

I'm thinking i'll make the brace and main bar of the ARB from 1" 1.6mm wall T45 and then get the blades and "end tubes" for the ARB made to spec.

Although i'll need to research more on the actual blades.

What do we think about the stiffness of the T45 for the main bar of the ARB? Bearing in mind that the blades will be able to compensate for it being too stiff i guess?

Edited by James_H on 1st Sep, 2009.


antman

User Avatar

966 Posts
Member #: 358
Post Whore

Snetterton, Norfolk

Some of our cars at work have adjustable blade arbs with a cable adjustor to alter the stiffness as the tyres go off through a race. Not quite what you need for a min though!!

It would be handy to be able to tweak it until you find a happy medium then lock it up.

Home > General Chat > Blade? type ARB thickness/material.
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)   Next ->
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: