getting hot
Turbo Mini Forums

hi guys.

Got a metro turbo engine in a mini, buts its running really hot.
The engine is a 1293, with charge cooler, 4-core rad, garret T3 etc. It was the cover car for miniworld in august this year if that helps for more info.

Anyawy, it was running fine, then took it to the rolling road,
It got up to 100 degs C so had to cool down before each run.
the needle got changed, sparks got changed to higher temp ones, timing was ajusted marginally and the bleed valve adjusted to give more boost(although we could only get one bar of boost max) but thats another problem that we'll leave for now.
When it was on the rollers it ran fine, but when i got it home and took it out the next day it ran rough and got extremely hot in a couple of miles. Over 100deg C! needless to say i stoped pretty sharpish and let it cool down. I do have water in the rad.
Oils a good temp though. Around 80deg C.

I did find that the vaccum hose that runs from the dizzy to the inlet manifold had came loose which was probaly causing it run rough, but does anybody have any idea why it now gets sooo hot??


Cheers guys!
Al

i think th RR guy may have advanced the timing a shade more than is needed or and...... made the mixture a touch lean!

you charge cooler isent helping matters here also, i would go for a good intercooler instead of the chargecooler.

what rad setup and stat are you running 74 deg is best!

what rolling road was it?

Do you have a lambda gauge? if not i think they are essential, as Steve says, check your not running lean.

Running hot can be down to fuel mixture and timing.

check the rad for shitty build up, and flush if needed.

Ive just bought a 74 deg thermostat to try to help.

I have an air/fuel ratio meter that was running in the green perfectly before, but now only sits in the green at idle and full throttle. If my foot is on the accelerator but not on full throttle it dips into the red. Could this have been because my vaccum pipe that goes to the dizzy was off or more down to the mixture and timing?

I'll check the timming and mixture on the weekend.

Cheers guys!!!
you make it sound so very simple.

From the description it sounds like your air/fuel meter is just a simple narrowband.

Does it have actual accurate ratio numbers (or lambda numbers) or just the colours ?

You really need a wideband to get usefull information.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

its the simple one. its a DTMpower one. it just has the colours.

Then, as Mark has already said (and I agree), you really should invest in a wideband to know what's going on.

It sounds like the RR set your mixture up for WOT only and haven't really considered mixture at cruise, which can certainly affect running temperature, especially if your cooling system is marginal.

If you are using a chargecooler that uses the engine/radiator circuit to take its heat away, as Benross says, your cooling system becomes very marginal.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

The 4 core rad does not work too well on a turbo set-up from my experience. Rover fitted the Turbo Metro with a much thinner rad than standard to allow for greater air flow over the cooling veins. This is the methology behind fitting 2 core rads. I had a 4 core and could never keep the damned thing cool, then switched to an ally rad, skipped past the 2 core and went belt and braces

Own the day

My 2 core never had a problem keeping temps down, unless stood still running for long periods of time.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Carrying on with the picky bit, it depends which rad and which model metro...

I have a rad from a 1275 MK1 metro, which is over an inch thick. Our metro van has a radiator from a MK 2 turbo, which is about 1/2" thick. Both rad's came from cars I broke.

Other Mk 2 rads I've had my hands on where thicker than the van's current turbo rad, but slimmer than the MK1.

I also have a new aftermarket MK 1 metro rad, which is the same thickness as the standard Mk 2 rads...

Own the day

Rover parts bin lottery strikes again

Own the day

It sounds like the RR set your mixture up for WOT only and haven't really considered mixture at cruise, which can certainly affect running temperature, especially if your cooling system is marginal.

Sorry, but what do you mean about WOT?

Also my charge cooler is on a totaly seperate cooling system to the engine with its own front mounted rad, water pump and fluid so that shouldnt be effecting the performance of the radiator on the engine. plus before the RR it was fine on temp. Maybe a little hot when pushing it but nothing close to what its like now so it must be something that was changed during the RR.

Gona have a play around with it over the weekend and I'll let you guys know what I found.

WOT (wide open throttle)

cheers. thought that may have been it but thought i'd better check.
and yeah, it was on full throttle on the RR. the only time it wasnt was when he changed gear.

have you dont anything to the car since the rr? and is this the red one with 12" split rims and pace fmr?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

yeah thats the one.
Ive done nothing since the RR. I got it trailered home so never even drove it from the RR.

Hi guys,

fixed the problem today. It was running lean and I changed the needle to a 15psi high boost needle. Don't know what the RR guy put in. It was a 'BBC' if that helps anyone.
Its now running a lot cooler and smoother. I also fitted a new vacuum hose from the carb to the dizzy.

thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated!!

80oC sounds abit cool for oil?