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![]() 1183 Posts Member #: 6926 Post Whore Accrington |
5th Sep, 2009 at 04:02:23pm
I have had a quick scan on ebay for one and just found this as an example
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3596 Posts Member #: 655 Post Whore Northern Ireland |
5th Sep, 2009 at 05:01:20pm
Yes, but I'm sure you could source similar here for less money.
9.85 @ 145mph
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998 Posts Member #: 2178 Post Whore Leyland, Lancs |
5th Sep, 2009 at 05:54:24pm
Look for a standard boost solenoid off a 200sx - it was designed to limit boost in 1st and 2nd to actuator pressure, and then run a higher boost pressure in 3rd onwards. On 15th Jul, 2009 fastcarl said:
a breif struggle ensued but Will emerged the victor with a pair of undies in his possesion On 21st Sep, 2009 apbellamy said:
No, but you did chuck your guts up over my front gate the Saturday before! You even managed to get a bit in your arm pit... |
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30 Posts Member #: 1898 Member BRISTOL |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:04:17pm
I got one set up in my car. Mine came from a metro turbo as they have oneas standard that allows more boost at 5K revs.
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Forum Mod ![]() 4828 Posts Member #: 154 Post Whore Midlands |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:06:04pm
On 5th Sep, 2009 ALASTAIR said:
I got one set up in my car. Mine came from a metro turbo as they have oneas standard that allows more boost at 5K revs. A metro turbo one may be alot cheaper also. Basically i've ran 2 vaccum hoses from the turbo snail housing, one to the actuator set a your lowest boost setting that you want (9psi) and the other to your solenoid. The solenoid is closed when swithed off and opens to atmosphere when turned on. You will need to add a bleed valve to the oher side of the solenoid so you can adjust the amount of boost when its swithed on. Its very simple and means there needs to be more pressure (14psi) for the actuator to open at 9psi. Mines runs off a 12v system with a 5amp blade fuse. thats exactly how mine is atm On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:
Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF. |
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![]() 9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:12:53pm
impreza have them behind the head light drivers side, starlet glanza, metro turbo had one, my mate informs me a mazda 323gtr has one aswell
Yes i moved to the darkside |
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30 Posts Member #: 1898 Member BRISTOL |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:13:55pm
Good man.
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:16:50pm
The one listed above is similar to the one that we are going to use on the Miglia and controlled by the Megasquirt.
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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Forum Mod ![]() 4828 Posts Member #: 154 Post Whore Midlands |
5th Sep, 2009 at 06:22:02pm
just remembered that mine is also linked through my Jolt so when you flick the switch it will only go to full boost after 4000rpm. On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:
Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF. |
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![]() 1183 Posts Member #: 6926 Post Whore Accrington |
6th Sep, 2009 at 02:54:55am
On 5th Sep, 2009 ALASTAIR said:
I got one set up in my car. Mine came from a metro turbo as they have oneas standard that allows more boost at 5K revs. A metro turbo one may be alot cheaper also. Basically i've ran 2 vaccum hoses from the turbo snail housing, one to the actuator set a your lowest boost setting that you want (9psi) and the other to your solenoid. The solenoid is closed when swithed off and opens to atmosphere when turned on. You will need to add a bleed valve to the oher side of the solenoid so you can adjust the amount of boost when its swithed on. Its very simple and means there needs to be more pressure (14psi) for the actuator to open at 9psi. Mines runs off a 12v system with a 5amp blade fuse. Thanks for replys guys, and yes i have my plan now on how to do it! Thanks again, will update it when it gets done as $$$ is low at the moment basically im going to have an inline boost bleed valve from a T piece on the compressor housing to the actuator set at 9psi, then from the t piece have the solenoid which is either open or shut, then on the other end of that have another type of bleed valve and set that so that it runs 14psi ? Ive done a little crappy drawing, is this correct? http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x28/joh...stSwitchPic.jpg |
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3006 Posts Member #: 2500 Post Whore Buckinghamshire |
6th Sep, 2009 at 08:06:26am
Dont understand why you have a second bleed valve in the line to the actuator,as the actuator controls the boost anyway. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
6th Sep, 2009 at 08:57:32am
I would say no, well not very effectively anyway.
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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![]() 1183 Posts Member #: 6926 Post Whore Accrington |
6th Sep, 2009 at 12:52:16pm
On 6th Sep, 2009 Rod S said:
However, a much better way would be to use an actuator rated at 9psi (without any bleed) and then a single solenoid controlled bleed valve to fool it to 14psi. i was thinking that, ill have to try and find one cheap, cannot afford a new one at this time :( |
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![]() 1183 Posts Member #: 6926 Post Whore Accrington |
14th Sep, 2009 at 08:19:15pm
I got a solenoid from some sort of turbo volvo for £10 from a scrapper, already had this novelty bleed valve and bought some wire connectors and a box from maplins and now i have my boost controll box :) going to wire it to a switch on the dash from a spare 5amp terminal on the fuse box..
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