Ignition module type dizzy
Turbo Mini Forums

Well after pissing around with the Sabre spring this morning I'm still not much closer to having it running properly.

The problems I have found are as follows:
1) throtle not fully opening butterfly - fixed
2) get and needle very dirty - fixed
3) choke not set right - fixed
4) feed to ignition module via ballast wire - fixed

But still it runs poorley, mainly backfiring through the carb at seemingly randon times and it feel flat at 5k if it can be coaxed to get there. I checked the timing, and at tickover its between 8 and 12 deg, but it hardly rises when you rev it.

Also, only the two outside pins of the 3-pin plug are connected on the module (one +ve, one to the -ve of the coil) is the other just an earth? does it need connection.

Could the above stop the dizzy advancing? id the module or the dissy FUBAR. Ultimately I will MS the car, but need it running so Ican use it til then.

Cheers for any help, I know little about the electronic dizzys, I might stick a points one one to see if it makes a difference.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

The connections to the module are correct, it only uses 2, and connected as you say.

The advance is governed by the weights inside the dizzy just the same as a points one, so I'd get it out and see if the weights have seized.

Have you swapped the coil and is it definatly an ellectronic ignition ballast coil?

Had this type of trouble with John's yello mini and it was the coil. If it's none ballast, 9v won't be enough to give a proper spark.

Silly question but has it got new or old fuel in it?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

The electronic ignition coils are different to both the 12V and the "ballast" coils (although similar in internal resistance to the ballast ones). It should be clearly marked "for electronic ignition".

I assume when you say "4) feed to ignition module via ballast wire - fixed" you now have a proper 12V feed to the coil/module, not the white/pink wire.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

does the coil need 12 volts? mine has the pink/white wire and another(not sure on coulor) to the positive side of the coil and I have 9v at the coil, is this not correct? I have searched on here to find the answer but no luck, and with no manual for reference I am not sure?

I depends on what coil you have....

AlexF

im using a lucas dlb 198 coil
ngk bpr7es plugs, standard leads and distributor

Excellent.

To answer some points made.

I put fresh fuel in

The car obviously was built with a different engine and ignition type, i.e. ballast resistor type. Whoever chaned the engine used the resistor wire to supply voltage to the ignition module. I know that these don't like much less than 12V, so I gave it a new wire.

I will check the coil type and see if it has a ballast wire supplying it too, I seem to think it was w/bl wire though.

Wipping it off and checking the bob weights seems the best idea.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Pink/white was usually the ballast feed (the wire itself being the ballast resistor) to the coil on a ballast setup.
There would then (usually) be a black/yellow wire down to the extra tag on the solenoid to give the coil maximum available battery volatge on starting.
Plain white would usually have been a 12V feed to the coil on a non ballast system or an electronic module.
Black/white would (usually) be the contact breaker (or electronic module switching circuit) side of the coil and also go off to a rev counter if fitted.
All the original coils I have seen that went with the electronic dizzy are cleary marked "for electronic ignition only" but aftermarket ones may not be.
The reason I keep saying "usually" is because Leyland were never consistent....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

All electronic ignition coils, which include the SPi, do not use the balast wire. The iginition module controls the ignition dwell on the available voltage.

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...20IGN%20+TURB...

my moneys on the bob wieghts stuck or springs broke.

its worth whacking the full 12v to the coil though, even if its a 9v one give up eventually at 12v but are ok for quite a while.

The three wire amplifiers have been discussed on here before and I am clear that only the outside two wires need to be connected,but I am not clear on which one is negative and which one is positive - if connected the wrong way round the amplifier is then NFU.

Cheers for all your help, I've checked all the voltages and they are all 12V where they should be.

I swopped the dizzy for another I had in the garage, this seemed to change the advance nicely as I revved the car, but as soon I I drove down the road, it did the same.

So it's back to thye carb I think.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I'm sticking to Coil and leads. Same symptoms as John's yellow mini. ran fine in the garage but dies 50 yards up the road...

Right i can now say with certinty that it is not ignition related, I have changed and checked everything. I bought a new coil, but it was the same as the old one and made bugger all differance.

I removed the carb last night and found that the float bowl (HIF) was full of what I suspect is dried up fuel. I will put it back on later after a good clean.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph