Pre Verto clutch
Turbo Mini Forums

Got problem with my clutch. I renewed the trust bear on the clutch because it basic welded its self to the caseing. Put all back together and clutch was only just biting. With in a week went all together i took it all apart but plate doesn't look at worn, but i don't know alot about these clutchs so as anyone got any ideas.

Ps: Anyone touque settings for them three bolts in the middle of the clutch cheers fellas

http://www.Zeemax.com

Hi is there anyway of checking how worn the diafram is cost it looks quiet black

http://www.Zeemax.com

If you mean the driven plate (the one with the friction material), yes - measure its thickness.

Vernier caliper or micrometer - they all start a specified thickness and have a specified wear limit - look at the supplier's website (ie, AP) and look up the part number.

EDIT - just re-read the post, if you mean the diaphragm spring assembly is black, well it doesn't wear.... The back of the flywheel can and the pressure plate can, but not the diaphragm. Have you got a photo of what you are looking at ???

Edited by Rod S on 2nd Oct, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

If it's only the thrust bearing that you've disturbed, it means you've probably had to remove the wacking big throw out stop nut and lock nut on the end of the plunger on the outside of the clutch cover (wok type thingy).

They do need setting back up again when you re-fit them.

It's a doddle and is fully described in the Haynes Manual but as a very quick check, slacken them right off and try again. Be careful though. Racers remove the two nuts altogether but if you do that, there's a risk of pushing the flywheel back plate into the flywheel housing when you use the clutch with the engine running and it don't half make a mess.

As I said - this is a quick check. You would be well advised to read the Haynes for a full instruction.

This also assumes you've not touched the fine threaded 1/4 inch unf clutch arm stop bolt and lock nut as these have a big part to play in how high the clutch pedal bites when you drive it. If you need to check for correct setting, take the spring off the slave cylinder and manually pull the clutch arm away from the slave until it stops. In this position, the thrust bearing will take up any clearance and in doing so it will make contact with the diaphragm. There should be a gap of about 0.5 mm between the head of the bolt and the clutch arm. Think the Haynes say's 0.012 inch from memory. If not, unscrew the locknut and screw the bolt in or out until there is a gap. Then nip the locknut back up again. Actually, whilst you're there, pull the arm back out and check the two wacking locknut positions - there should be about a 6 mm gap between the casing and the tapered locknut. Dont forget to put the slave spring back on when you've finished.

Read the Haynes.

Good luck buddy.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
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