3rd/4th syncro goes tight every time i nip it up?
Turbo Mini Forums

need some help, cant seem to get things to spin freely. Every time i pull up the bearing 3rd and 4th goes tight! I can shim it to make it lose but then the gear set isnt running close enough if you know what i mean? Baulk rings engage before i get any end float. Am i doing something wrong? Or just cheap baulk rings?

Have you got the synchro hub in the right way round?

I've had that before. Ended up using a good used baulk ring.

Both of the above were my thoughts. I've built a box with the synchro hub the wrong way round once in my youth. Also as Dave says, try another baulk ring if you have any spare.

syncro hub wrong way round? DOH! didn't think it was handed! best check that tonight. Wont forget that one in a hurry, been 3 evenings trying to get it to work properly!!
Will share my stoooopidity with you later once its done.
Cheers

Check both the sync hubs, its very easy to get them backwards then they bind up on the selectors too

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

Yeah - why the fudge didn't they make that one symetrical, or obviously handed. That lack of pokeyoke annoys the crap out of me everytime I pull that hub apart - the one in my gearbox is scribed 1st motion side however... :)

i had this problem with a gearbox i built and it was as stated above the baulk rings were to thick. built it up anyway and it worked fine. there was plenty of meat to wear off the baulk rings anyway. 8-)

Do it right the first time and make it mint!!!!!!

I heard that some baulk rings were flying around last year that had the wrong taper on them. I had a similar problem. Ended up mixing and matching good old ones and new together to get the tolerances right.

Was dodgy baulk rings! Both syncro hubs right way round. So now thats fixed and its not sitting on the baulk rings i have way to much end float, 3/4 of a mm. No shims in at all so how the f**k am i supposed to reduce it? Am i being to fussy here?

End float where?

if you mean the hub moving around, thou outer be loose on the inner bit due to the 3 balls and springs, the inner bit iirc can move about a little on the mainshaft, 3/4 of a mm sounds ok to me.

If you push/pull the 3rd motion shaft with the speedo drive it will knock back an fourth just under a millimeter. I assumed that the purpose of shiming it was to bring this to the figure in the manual (0.25 mm) or is that meaning up and down?