Bound rebound and droop.
Turbo Mini Forums

I know, not another topic!

So I'm measuring up for my coilovers and trying to work out open and closed lengths but I don't know if I'm going about it the right way.

ok so the pictures show my suspension at full droop (using thicker droop stops as advised by JF. The distance between the top arm and the subframe at my intended ride height. And the suspension at full bump.

I have a few problems with what I'm doing.

in my building prepping and racing your mini book it says that you should check the angle at which your top ball joints lock up, but my top arm hits the subframe before this happens, is this right?

also how much bump travel from ride height does a track car need?

and does this look like enough droop?

then I've just found this in the same book.

ian curleys origional miglia at ride height.

there can't be more than 15mm full bump.




(I'm getting good at this, this whole thing has been done on my iPhone from taking the photos uploading them on photobucket to linking them on here, I don't have a pc!)

Do you not have the subframe fixed to the body without the solid mounts between body and frame?

There is a good 3/8" at least, and how the mig boys do it. That should improve the bump distance?

I also remember that on Will and Bens TT2, they completely cut out the area on the tower where the ball joint hits. And I was also lead to believe that the ball joints dont lock up untill they are right up there in the tower?

No I haven't done this.

That would make sense if they don't lock up until they are that high, I don't see as I need to cut that bit of the subframe out, it would almost bottom the car on the sump if it goes that far.

if you are running that low you'll have to modify your balljoints unless you want them snapping!

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know

how would I got about doing that scruffy?

Your car must be a simular ride height?

As long as the ball joint can never bind then it shouldn't be in danger of braking. I run that low, if not lower with no modification to my ball joint, and never broken one.

As above I cut the whole area of the front subframe out that usually has the bumpstop on it so I could get low enough. with the -ve camber I run I found that the joints never bound.

I plan to run less camber next season, so I will re-check.

My front dampers are 25mm shorter than the 'lowered' items that Spax etc offer (although I'll be honest, I can't remember if it was the body that was 25mm shorter of the extended length). Ben has the car at his house at the moment, he could maybe measure them if you want.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Thanks Wil that's what I wanted to hear.

If it would be possible for Ben to measure it that would be much appreciated.

i have had one snap too when running that low in my early mini days. but woudlnt take to much fettling to prevent this.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

how would you go about this? modify the cup?

sorry was in work when i replied, now home, was the knuckle joint that broke, so simply relieving some material in the top arm where the knuckle sits allowed the arm to go right up without fouling, however, the ride was apauling and the car was a daily so wasnt long before it was back to a sensible height.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

I think you have to be concerned about things tightning up and braking, Scruffy is right. But if it doesn't bind then you should be ok.

But it may be the case that the angle of the thing at such low ride heights puts extra stress on the joint, leading to failure. Remember my car does very little mileage (even though it's all flat out).

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph