Suspension settings (using an LSD)
Turbo Mini Forums

Right, been searching (possibly in vain) for titbits on what sort of suspension settings yo use with an LSD

Ill be running a JKD mk7 diff, so what should i be warey of?

It looks like Steve (Benross) suggested to keep camber relatively mild on the front, and maybe get the tracking parallel?

As a starting point i was going to give it

1 deg neg camber
a mm or 2 of toe out
and about 5 deg castor (maybe a bit more as i like alot)

and then see where it goes from there, keep in mind that the suspension ill be keeping relatively soft (manx roads) and notrunning any arbs or anything like that to begin with

any pointers?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

IMO camber and toe will not need to be changed at all from what you use with an open diff (certinally as a starting point anyway).

What you need to think about is the castor. Go too big and you'll need Popeye's arms to keep it on the road, especially if you have a big wheel off-set. The TT is set at 3.5deg (but I've got arms more like Olive Oyl).

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Cheers wil, im taking the precaution of tieing the column to the cag as i doubt the std link will be much cop when im wrestling with the wheel

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Interesting thread,

I am running 4.5 caster on mine with the quaife (which will be a bit more girly)

lol, cheers scruffy, ive got a quaife in another box, but thought id try this first, the plate dif in my mates 106 is a bit fo a handful in a straight line, but emmense around the bends, i cant understand how it can be so grippy!

ive been warned about too much toe out, i guess thats as it will make the car pull to the side more when the power shifts?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hey guys

I know i'm resurecting a fekkin old thread here, but trying to help out a mate.

I've helped him build up a 1980 Mini Clubman with a Toyota 1600 20 v engine in a custom subframe for track day use.

It runs 6x13 alloys with high profile Dunlop 175/60 semis, for cost and gearing, BUT tbh, mostly on cost as they are 1/3 the price of A048s.

Anyway, he is also running a non quaife LSD which is a bit of a handful, Mini Spares rose jointed bottom arms and rubber bushed tie bars with KAD rear brackets and a Mini Spares rear anti roll bar.

We had it out on the track for the 1st time on Sat and it was was snaking all over the place coming out of the corners, on the front he was running std toe with 1.5 degrees negy and 3 degrees castor, at the rear he had 1 degree neggy with some toe in.

All the seasoned racers (who mostly run Mk1 golfs) told him to put on more neg camber and more toe out at the front, which we did, it did make the car more stable coming out of the corners but he thrashed the 2 front tyres in 3 x 12 minute sessions - as in, there was bugger all thread left on them. The back ones are still ok.

The car aint road legal and is purely for track days, any suggestions ?

Ta for any input

Check out the South African Mini Forum

www.atfreeforum.com/kznmini

that sounds like a lot of camber for 13's

I run 1 deg on the front and .5 on the rear with just a hint of toe out.

have you looked at the corner weights?

Corner weights MAY be a problem TBH, the car is just newly completed and runs a subframe based on the rear of the std Mini ffront with the whole front modded to take the toyota Motor and gearbox.

thanks for the reply

Check out the South African Mini Forum

www.atfreeforum.com/kznmini

get the wheels as inset as you can to reduce scrub radius. (the oodles of negative camber kinda fake this by moving the centre of the contact patch, its a horrible compromise) get the camber to something sensible like -1/-1.5. LOTS more castor like 6-7degrees, set the toe stright up or a little toe out, and while its on your alignment jig, jack up the front of the car and see if you have a bump steer issue, if you do, fix it. after all thats done get the front corner weights as even as you can, after that its simply as good as it will get unless you start changing major suspension components to reduce flex and get the scrub radius down :)

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

When I fitted my diff I had no end of trouble with the car pulling to one side! Ended up playing with the corner weights until it pulled straight, rest of the settings are pretty much as stated above!

Ta for all the help guys.

Check out the South African Mini Forum

www.atfreeforum.com/kznmini

I found with my Salisbury that with standard toe out if one wheel lost traction either from spinning on a manhole cover or hitting a bump and bouncing, the car went in the direction of the wheel that still had traction and with toe out obviously it didnt go straight. So, I use rose jointed front suspension set parrallel, camber is down to preference (doesnt have to be loads cos of the extra grip from the diff) and 3.5 degree of castor works best for me

Paul

I seriously doubt it!