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207 Posts Member #: 193 Senior Member Aylesbury |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:04:29pm
I have got an engine that i brought from someone (stripped in bits) and they said that it had ARP Head studs and nuts. Should there be any identification markings on the studs or nuts to say that they definitely are ARP. Or is there a way of telling. Just want to know so i torque them up to the correct figure.
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Forum Mod  5933 Posts Member #: 784 9 times Avon Park Class C winner Milton Keynes |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:06:42pm
Later ARPs have an allen key slot in the top of them, and the nuts are multi point plus thick washers about 3mm thick, they will also be black as opposed to std greyish colour
I seriously doubt it! |
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207 Posts Member #: 193 Senior Member Aylesbury |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:09:40pm
On 7th Nov, 2009 paul wiginton said:
Later ARPs have an allen key slot in the top of them, and the nuts are multi point plus thick washers about 3mm thick, they will also be black as opposed to std greyish colour Paul Cheers for that, well they are definietly not the later type as there are no allen key slot in the top of them, so they are either early ones of not at all then. |
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 7765 Posts Member #: 74 I pick holes in everything.. Chief ancient post excavator |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:26:54pm
Aren't the ARP ones supposed to be torqued to 50lbs/ft dry as well?
On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem. |
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207 Posts Member #: 193 Senior Member Aylesbury |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:35:51pm
On 7th Nov, 2009 Vegard said:
When you brought the engine from someone, you didn't steal it I hope? No Vegard, i didn't steal it!! Brought a job lot from a lad on here about 2 years ago. He told me that he stripped the car but after looking through the bits a think it was only stripped after an accident, selector rod into the box was bend and other stuff along those lines. luckily the straight cut gears appear to be ok. Also one of the pistons had broken up and the head had a crack in it. In a way, which i hadn't brought it but you learn from your mistakes. This is the main reason that i am questioning whether the studs are genuine like the seller said.... Might just have to save for a new set if not, just to be sure. What are peoples experience with standard studs if not. Are they up to the job or not?? Thanks Luke |
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 6274 Posts Member #: 509 Post Whore Isle of Man |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:39:43pm
you brought on the wraith of the viking more like "Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"
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Forum Mod 5933 Posts Member #: 784 9 times Avon Park Class C winner Milton Keynes |
7th Nov, 2009 at 05:41:31pm
Ive seen people just using cap head bolts before, Baldwin had them in his SH Mig engine that won championships. Lots cheaper
I seriously doubt it! |
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7765 Posts Member #: 74 I pick holes in everything.. Chief ancient post excavator |
7th Nov, 2009 at 06:29:49pm
On 7th Nov, 2009 LukeAnsley said:
On 7th Nov, 2009 Vegard said:
When you brought the engine from someone, you didn't steal it I hope? No Vegard, i didn't steal it!! Brought a job lot from a lad on here about 2 years ago. Where did you bring this then? On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem. |
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14 Posts Member #: 7326 Member Tecmseh, Ontario, Canada |
7th Nov, 2009 at 08:06:45pm
Standard studs are crap, I had numerous issues with the bloody things over the years until I stopped being a cheapskate and using ARPs n everything I touched.
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7765 Posts Member #: 74 I pick holes in everything.. Chief ancient post excavator |
8th Nov, 2009 at 05:37:36pm
The A+ studs are infact very good. Are these the ones you've got bad experience with? On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem. |
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