engine still run on after switch off
Turbo Mini Forums

i have this problem with my car.
its an 1.3 injection but i have converted it to carburattor.
now the problem is,
-th eengine is still run on even after i have switched off the switch.
i have tried change the radiator cap,thermostat,coil,distributor,the timing being set again,but it still occur..
i'm out of idea now..
can somebody tell me how to solved it?

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It's a common problem with some A Series engines. Hotspots in the cylinder head acting like a spark plug. The way Leyland/Rover got over it on some of the Metro models (ie, MG Metro) was to install an anti-run on valve, basically a solenoid operated valve connected to the inlet manifold which was shut with the engine running (ignition on) and openned as soon as the ignition switch was turned off allowing the engine to suck in a load of air rather than the correct mixture from the carb.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Check your mixture. If it's running lean it can cause running on.

also timing too advanced and low grade fuel

Altinator back feeding through the ignition light circuit thereby powering the coil. Fit a diode!

Own the day

er..any pic?
i doesnt know which part is it.

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i've checked the mixture.everything is ok.

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i've checked the distributor timing.
i start the engine then retard the timing,and then i switch off the engine it stiil happened.
i'm using RON95 grade fuel.

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how to put it eh?
hehe...

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forgot something.
it only happen when the engine is hot.i mean up to working temperature/the temp.meter is at the centre(N)

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If it only happens when hot, then it is hotspots in the cylinder head, not a backfeed to the coil. So it's either mixture, timing, grade of fuel or you need the anti-run on valve. Leyland/Rover opted for the anti-run on valve to avoid sorting all the other issues.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

What grade of plugs are you running?

If your head is coked up it can also lead to hotspots that cause running on. I've had cars running on even with a working anti-run on valve.

Anyone know where I can get a Anti-run-on valve? i.e. what model the car is so I can try my local factor?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I might have one throwing round Graham, I'll have a look when I get a minute.

i'm using NGK BP6S

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can anyone show the pic of the anti-run on valve and where it is located?

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If you have, or can borrow, the Haynes (red) Metro manual it's on pages 4.12, 4.13 including a photo.

On the Metros that have it it's mounted on the bulkhead and (I think) the hose was teed into the brake servo hose off the inlet manifold.

I can't photo the real thing, I scrapped tha car ages ago, only bought it for the engine.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

i didnt have the metro manual..
only haynes mini manual..
lets say,
if i found and fit the anti-run on valve but the problem still occur,what can i do next?
do i need to skim the head?or maybe i can try change the head first?
because i've settled everything with mixture and timing.
i think tomorrow i want to changed the head.

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Thanks Mate, let me know if you don't mind.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

I just used to stall the engine (drop the clutch) when mine ran on. As metroturbo says, sometimes it does it just when the head needs decoking. ie carbon still glowing causing engine to fire.

Mine stopped running on (well, almost!) after I fitted a new radiator. The problem with the anti-run-on valve is when it leaks air and burns your valves...

Edited by h4887 on 7th Dec, 2009.

Geoff

Ah the full story.

Own the day

Cooper carbs have them installed too (ARV)