I have high oil pressure what you think
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi
On my 1380 the oil pressure is 95psi at idle and when i rev it it goes well over 100psi and i think its a bit to high.

Me and matt woods was chating about it when he came down and i was just putting it out there to see what you all think. A s i have been thinking about it all day.

would something like this help.

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...34622&title=OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR KI...

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

That would probably not help as you cannot decrease pressure with that. Fit another brass washer, or shorten the spring.

i would remove the plunger and make sure it has a smooth operation, or fit ne one and a new spring and make sure you have the correct spring to as i think the ones for the ball is slightly longer.

this is the normall case also sometimes if you have changed to the ball so as vegard states you will need to shorten the spring.

but the adjustable end cap does lower the presure slightly before you adjust to the amount you require.

no more than 75 psi when cold on tick over or at full revs when hot and idealy no less than 25psi when hot on tick over.

just remeber when checking oil pressure settings also keep an eye on the oil flow at the rockers becasue when you increase the pressure you reduce flow and its flow we want at a reasonable pressure.

mine is 50-60 psi when hot at full revs and has good flow at the rockers if i increase this then the flow trate does drop at the rockers.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Is your gauge reading properly? Check with a new gauge/sensor if you can.

Sounds like to me your presure relief valve is stuck SHUT or the is an oil passage 'behind' the relief valve that is blocked. These are only about 1/4" in diameter. If you look on your block, just below the relief valve you'll see a brass plug in the block. This is part of it, to get to the rest of it, you need to seperate the block from the gearbox.

I have seen the symptoms that you describe twice now and both times it was because and attempt was made to remove these plugs but they were only pushed in and so blocked of the oil ways behind the relief valve causeing a hydraulic lock.

It is also possible that there is something jambing the valve shut, but I doubt this as it would eventually tend to get jambe open, unless the spring was removed and a solid piece put in it's place.

I think he means fitting another washer under the head of the domed nut that holds the relief spring in.

Therefore same effect as shortening the spring

Colin,

V means the brass washer under the releif valve cover, so it packs it out away from the spring.


as above, check the releif valve for being sticky, and for marks on the side if it is the shuttle type,

trim the spring down a half turn at a time, if you go too far, you can just add a 3/8 or M6 washer or two in the cover to bring the pressure back up.

I'd say aim for about 75 at idle cold intitially then get it hot, it should then drop a bit when hot,

when hot I like to see 60ish psi at higher revs, and in the 20's at idle, although a new build is likely to be higher at idle.

It hasnt been mentioned that this is a new engine, it could well be the wrong spring, so check that, but it might go down a bit with some more running in

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

Is that 95psi cold?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Hi lads thanks for your replys
matty no its when its hot

i think i am going to check the releif valve as i am not sure what type is in there

simon

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

95 when hot at idle? whats your secret
id say its got to be a dodgy gauge or stuck pressure release/wrong spring

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Sorry, I don't know why I wrote brass...Copper it is.

actually sprocket old mate that is wrong.

if you increase pressure of the pump fliud then you will decrease flow, as the two in theory are a square. eg if a pump pumping a fluid at a given rpm say 4 ltr a minute at 30 psi, buy doubling the pressure to 60 psi you will actaully half the flow and visa a versa.
the oil pump is actally a consectric postive displacemnt pump

buy increasing the pressure you are bascially putting a obstical in its way eg the regulator buy increasing the rsitance in the spring you increas the pressure through the system but the escess will be guided down the reliev port back to the sump, buy decreasing the pressure on the spring you will decreas the pressure in the system but increas the flow, but obvisaly you have other restrictions in the system eg bearing and rocker bushes which all need a minium pressure and flow rate to make the engine work reliably.

the main din recomandations if i remember right is 50 psi at 3500 rpm at 3ltrs a minute at 105 deg c for shell bearing running on a floating oil lubrucation sytem to work satisfactory

high rpm engines eg race and f1 engines is a totaly different ball game

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Edited by Sprocket on 30th Dec, 2009.

Come on Colin, usually just mentioning her is grounds enough to have to post a picture of her.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Hi lads, I got out today and had a play with the car. I went and got a cooper spring, took the old spring out of the car and got the ball bearing out of the block, so that was not stuck. Then I had to cut the cooper spring down a bit at a time til I got it to 70psi. Thanks alot lads for your help.
simon

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.