Can't bleed my brakes
Turbo Mini Forums

The rear wheel cylinder leaked on my mini and caused the brake to fail, I have replaced it and the rear shoes but can't get any fluid to pump passed the brake limiter valve.

The master cylinder is brand new is it common that the brake limiters fail when the cylinders fail? They are £80 should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

Thanks

(about time I fixed this, haven't used the car in about 4 months!)

Is the rear brake limiter on the side of the master cylinder on your car? If so there may be one at Andy's house from one of the metro's we've broken.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

its seperate bolted on the bulkhead.

If it is the later system it talks about removing the warning switch from the side of the m/cyl

see this extract from the HBOL

Dual circuit system (later type)
24 The following procedure is applicable to
the type 2, 3 and 4 tandem master cylinders
(see Section 13) fitted to diagonally-split and
front-to-rear split hydraulic systems.
25 Before commencing the bleeding
operation, unscrew the brake failure warning
switch (where fitted) from the side of the
master cylinder body. (No fluid loss will occur
unless there is internal pressure differential
piston seal failure.)
Note: If the system is being bled following
renewal of the master cylinder, check whether
a plastic spacer is fitted between the pressure
switch and master cylinder body. If a spacer is
present, leave it in position during the
bleeding operation and then discard it.
26 To bleed the system, clean the area
around the bleed screws of the wheels to be
bled. If only half of the hydraulic system has
been disconnected, it should only be
necessary to bleed that half, provided no air
has entered the other half. However, if the
entire system is to be bled, it must be done in
the following sequence.
27 For diagonally split systems, proceed in
the order ABCD for right-hand drive cars, and
CDAB for left-hand drive vehicles (see
illustration).
28 For front-to-rear split systems, proceed in
the order ABCD, irrespective of driving
position (see illustration).
29 The procedure is now the same as
described in paragraphs 12 to 19 for the
single circuit system, except that the brake
pedal should be depressed rapidly, held down
for three seconds, and then released slowly. A
delay of fifteen seconds should then be
allowed before repeating.
30 Where applicable, refit the brake failure
warning switch and tighten it to the specified
torque after completing the bleeding
operation.
Braking system 9•3
9
2.13 One-man brake bleeding kit
connected to the front bleed screw
2.21 Bleeding sequence for type 1 tandem
master cylinder - see text
2.27 Bleeding sequence for type 2, 3 and 4
tandem master cylinders with diagonal
split dual circuit braking systems - see text
2.28 Bleeding sequence for type 2, 3 and 4
tandem master cylinders with front-to-rear
split dual circuit braking systems - see text

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know

Theres no warning switch on mine! the only wires go to the cap on the master cylinder

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

As silly as this may sounds, check the cylinder where the break pipe goes in. I had to take two back in the last couple of years because the hole where the pipe screws in-to was not drilled through to allow the fluid to pass in-to the main body of the cylinder. As this was not something that I was expecting to find, I bolted one on without looking down the hole, why would I as it was brand new !. And then proceeded to spend god knows how long trying to figure out why it would not bleed. I finally took it off again, expecting a bit of gaskett or crap blocking the hole. Nope, just solid steel!. Another bought from a different supplier was the same. Dodgy batch I guess.