Lets have a depressing moment!!
Turbo Mini Forums

Do you ever get the feeling, that you put loads of hours in on your car, but you get nowhere?

Im having that rite now, lol

Cheers, Stevo

all the time

the cure

a bar of whole nut

A mint Aero does it for me.

Cup of tea, surely.

I've been trying for 6 hours now to get the flywheel of the crank. Never had one stick on before.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Give the puller 4 white knuckles and twat flywheel through starter motor hole..that is Twat as in wack V hard!

Lap it back onto the crank with grinding paste when re-fitting.

Suck eggs?

JF.

Cheers Jon, all advive welcome. But, yer, tried everything, twatted like I've never twatted before.

Bringing engine into work tomorrow to get it as hot as I dare.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

try a bit of heat mate

And dont forget to remove the key - flywheel to crankshaft, before puting the puller onto the crank...

http://www.minifreunde.at

i feel like that and aint got car sorted! if that makes any sense?

betta be good when done!

IAM HAPPY COZ STARTED! yipee:cool:

Edited by b16_b on 17th Jan, 2005.

heat is the answer lots of it , don`t hit it through the starter hole ... off set forces or something
get plenty of tension on the puller FIVE white knuckles and then heat the fucker up , when its starting to cool hit the pullerAHAF .....
as JF says
granny suck eggs etc

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....

just removed my flywheel last night, its the first time i've done it, feckin hell it was tight! i had to call my mate round to helpp me by sitting on the engine!
am i just being a pussy or is that normal?
DAN :)

WIh-LL been there mate, the weather dont help much when your hand frezzes on to the tools hang in there buddy,a beer helps i find.

the flywheel budd, fit the puller and whack it up fully then i place some heat on the flywheel boss in a SMALL area only, i use a Number 5 tip in the welding plant and hold it in one spot and i assure you it will FLOP off.
i tried placing heat all over and failed i had to destroy the flywheel boss to remove it,
i found that Rover spot welded the boss to the crank to stop it fretting
try this method and you will be assured winning first go. remember heat on one spot only NOT all over.
OH and "STAND CLEAR" as it nearly Broke my leg last time
it takes about 10 seconds of heat and then bang

Edited by BENROSS on 13th Jan, 2005.

A good fast drive usually cures that!

Ben - are you saying that Rover DID spotweld the crank? Or are you jesting?

DAVE rover did spot weld the cranks like i said buddy,
i have tore half a dozen virgin units down and on close inspection there was the tel tale spot weld.
i towd my bag out trying to remove the flywheel i destroyed my first boss i heated it until it was white hot! and it still would not move even with a 5 ton puller on! with the heat the first one i had came across like this for 30 years i had never failed befor.
at the same time i had to destroy the whole clutch with burning gear and a grinder.

it was just by chance that i just applied slight heat like i mentioned and they ALL FLOPPED off, from there,
on examination dave they ALL had been spotted buddy and there was no fretting involved on all of them. which is great
the same applies to some none turbo A plus which i tore down as well
i have not made any enquiries at all but trust me its the case I closley inspected all of them
its on all of them i pulled down anyway they may have done them on a certain year?
i think its worth mentioning to all members, as i bet everone on a virgin strip down has pulled there bag out trying to remove the clutch
spotting does work dave no fretting at all.

Edited by BENROSS on 13th Jan, 2005.

Interesting.

Tried all the methods above already except getting it very hot in 1 spot.

It's certinally not a virgin rebuild though and as I remember I never welded it on last time.

So far I have buggered 1 puller and fucked the threads in the flywheel (it was tight). 3 new beautifully drilled and tapped holes later and it's off for some heat in the next few hours.

Meand I'll have to get the whole thing balanced again though.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Funking done it.

Plenty of heat and bigger and bigger hammers, oh and a bit of freezer spray.

Both fly and crank surfaces look spot-on, so I don't know what caused it to stick on. Maybe I'll tighten it on slightly less this time.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

bigest hammer so far was a 14pounder , that knocked the engine half way across the garage at same time .lol. but the flywheel did come off .

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....

yes use the biggest brummy screw driver you can find

16V project underway

i was getting that feeling all the time, however things are coming right now!

i was given the tip to leave the puller on over night and you may find the fairies will pop it off.

Ben,

There is no way that the flywheel is spotwelded to the taper. It isn't physically possible to weld through that thickness of material. Even if you tried it there would be massive witness marks - take a look at a steel wheel where the hub is welded to the rim - and tht's only a few mm thick. Infact - where would you put the other electrode if one is on the outside of the flywheel hub?

If they were welded, surely heat would make no difference to the removal either?

I'm not about to say what makes some easy to remove a few times, then impossible to remove the next time (like ben/wills motor) as i just don't know.
There is no way a manufacturer would weld the flywheel to a crankshaft, especially if it had to be removed to swap out a clutch...

D

well thats what i found dave, i am not jesting.
the marks left were, one spot on the flywheel hub and one on the end of the crank.
it penetrated through i found this on all the units i pulled down i will see if i can find a pic for you today and post it its certainly not fretting.

well dave, looked in the garage and found a unit removed the housing and looked at the crank no marks on this one.
its a few years since i tore one down but i am positive this was what stuck in my memory this been the conclusion i came to at the time and my friend agreed with me
you are right what you say its logical
iam going to pull a nother unit down in the next week or so as i have a few to go at.

Daves right on this one. I'd like to see the spot welding equipment for this job!! lol

I think you may find that the flywheel taper has cold welded it's self to the crank in a spot or two. I've had them just the same and to some it may look like a spot weld mark, but it isn't. I had one that i ended up with my 30ton hydrolic puller on it , it was a b*stard to get of. a peice of the flywheel had got hold of the crank and torn away from the flywheel. I then had to get this effectively oversized area of the crank past part of the tapper that was smaller in diameter, not easy !!!!

Make sure that any surface imperfections on the crank tapper are not protruding as this will mean the flywheel may not run true when its put back on. If its the same flywheel etc then make sure the inside tapper is ok as well.

And watch out for the heat you apply when trying to remove them. Get them to hot and you will basically knacker your crank etc. You should only need maybe a few hundred degrees. Shouldn't even get to glowing dull red as this will kill heat treatments that were performed on the components when they were manufactured.

to some it may look like a spot weld
well maybe
i may have assumed a few years ago the case of a spot weld after towing to release one and making an assumpion
i may stand corrected chaps