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spidfer

36 Posts
Member #: 84
Member

Hi guys - just first gonna say how helpful some of the posts have been on this forum for the turbo mini! - keep it up *wink*

I've got a question that has been asked on here before, although im going to ask again as im trying to do the turbo conversion in a two step process (almost)

I'd like to convert a standard A+ 1275 to a turbo lump by using the mirage kit and a T2 turbo from a R5 (Have I got that right, or can I use a T2 from any car - say an Fiesta RS turbo?). I gather that the compression ratio will have to be lowered to accomodate the turbo by changing the pistons.

As far as it goes, what other parts am I going to need to complete such a project?

The only reason I want to go this route is because im a cash strapped student looking for cheap thrills (ooh-er) and going from 998 - 1275 - 1275 turbo seems like a good progression in terms of knowledge trying to fit each engine; and because 1275 engines are relatively cheap compared to their turbo counterparts; and since im going to buy a mirage manifold at ?350, i dont want to have to buy duplicate kit so to speak!

I await the guru's advice

Toby


Jimster
Site Admin

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9408 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

Most T2's will fit as long as they have a four bolt square fixing. I have a fiesta turbo, and it doesn't fit, so dont waste your money on one of these. Most people use a R5 simply becasue there common.

You will also need, a turbo carb, fuel pressure regualtor, fuel pump, and dizzy, oh and a plenum chamber.

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


spidfer

36 Posts
Member #: 84
Member

Cool, in that case I can go fish out a 1275 block from a scrappy or whatver and fit that - be satisfied for about 2 months till after xmas then start buying turbo bits and pieces *wink*


turbodave16v
Forum Mod

10980 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

Post '87 blocks were the same as ALL turbo blocks - ie solid lower, grooved upper, main shells.

All rods are the same.

Late unleaded Metro heads had 22.5-23.0cc chambers, and are a good starting point for a low CR.

Put a mild road (MG for example) or Special Turbo Cam into it aswell for a little more benefit.


As you're a 'cash strapped student' you'd be best finding a good running post 87 engine/box from a scrappies.
Pull it apart to check all is ok - replace shells / oil pump if needed, fit the cam.
Once done then rebuild the gearbox - replacing the two large mainshaft bearings, the 1st motion nose bearing, the spigot bearing (between 1st motion and mainshaft) without question.
The layshaft and laygear bearings should be replaced as well if finaces allow!
Check the wear gaps on the baulk rings, and replace if low.
Disasemble the diff and replace the fibre washers without question, and check the condition of the diff-pin.
Finally, replace the idler gear bearings, without question, and re-shim properly!
Fit a turbo coverplate aswell, to cope with the torque!

If that is too much to cope with - you could always throw in a good running unit, and limit yourself to 7/8 psi and see how long it lasts? Could be a six days, could be six months or more?

D

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY


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