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Elliot Staley08

9 Posts
Member #: 6517
Junior Member

Mansfield, notts

hi, jus finished buildin my metro turbo lump up, my cars still in the body shop to, i want to test the engine before i put it back into my mini, anyone got any idea's how to go about this.

Thanks
Elliot

Edited by Elliot Staley08 on 12th Feb, 2010.


Sprocket

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11046 Posts
Member #: 965
Post Whore

Preston On The Brook

Hook up a battery, an electric fuel pump, some fuel and away you go

This should give you an idea, from the king of floor test runs :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H70vEq_FMvs

Or try this one from Robert. Love the thumb *hehe!*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&hl=en-GB&v=97J-CIztvAk

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Jason G

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4360 Posts
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En-suite user

Braintree, Essex

As above...just run it up on the floor. The flat bottom gearbox was destined for that very purpose! *wink*

On 19th Jan, 2010 wil_h said:
I would start the furthest place from the finish.


On 24th Mar, 2012 apbellamy said:
I feel all special knowing that I've given your mum my wood.


Been neglecting Turbo'd 'A' series..............


Elliot Staley08

9 Posts
Member #: 6517
Junior Member

Mansfield, notts

cheers, i've got it turning over at the minute but it appears to be going backwards, alternator is spinning clockwise as u look at it with the belt end facing you, haven't wired the fuel pump up yet because i can't get t sparking. I've put the 2 earth on the coil to an earth, the 2 positives to the battery, power to the starter motor and 2 cables to just touch together the terminals on a pre engaged starter, coil gets warm when its connected but the plugs aren't sparking. Any idea's, the coil and dizzy are from my injection engine and theres no cables on the dizzy. any ideas as to weather its turning over the right way and as to why it isn't sparking, thanks

Elliot


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

It's running the right way.

You need to connect the negative on the coil to the dizzy. However, if it is an injection dizzy, preumably SPi, then it may need a positive feed as well.

EDIT: actually you may need to find another dizzy as the SPi one may need the ECU connecting to run.

Edited by Paul S on 13th Feb, 2010.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 13th Feb, 2010 Paul S said:

EDIT: actually you may need to find another dizzy as the SPi one may need the ECU connecting to run.


I think Paul is essentially correct, as far as I'm aware the SPI distributor has no contact breaker or electronic switch inside, it's just an HT distributor.

Hence no cable connection as you mention....

So all you are doing with your wiring is cooking the coil, hence it getting warm.

You need a dizzy either with contact breakers or the later electronic type for your test. Even the SPI ECU won't help you as it needs the SPI crankshaft signal which you don't have.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Elliot Staley08

9 Posts
Member #: 6517
Junior Member

Mansfield, notts

i've swapped it back to the dizzy and coil that came with the engine but still getting no spark, the dizzy is a 59 DM 4 wth a white block connector that should go to an ignition amplifier which i have by-passed putting a positive and negative back to the coil, still no sparks when turned over though

Edited by Elliot Staley08 on 13th Feb, 2010.


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Hmmmmm...

If you are now back to the early electronic dizzy (that has a seperate amplifier rather than one bolted on the side like the later ones) and you have connected the coil and 12V directly to the electronic switch inside without going through the amplifier - I would guess the internals are now fried.

Contact breaker dizzys are indestructable, but connect an electronic one up wrongly and it's toast....

The early type have to work with the external amplifier module and even if you now get hold of the required external amplifier, you are most likely too late.

To test the engine (but ONLY to test it) just use an old mechanical (contact breaker) dizzy.

EDIT - for clarity, see this thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=341958
The photos at the top are the later type with attached module, although it is unscrewed in the picture, the photos further down are the early type with a seperate module.

But in both cases the module is essential.

Edited by Rod S on 13th Feb, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Elliot Staley08

9 Posts
Member #: 6517
Junior Member

Mansfield, notts

thanks, we just spent last hour researching into it and just come to the same conclusion you have just told me :), i'm going to scrap using the 1 i have and get hold of a 65dm4, Thanks for every's inputs, i'll put a post up when its running, cheers
Elliot

Edited by Elliot Staley08 on 13th Feb, 2010.

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