Motorbike synth oil
Turbo Mini Forums

I hope this is not one of these subjects that pop up every second day. I made a search and did not find answers.
Question: would it hurt the gearbox to use motorbike synth oil designed to work in shared engine-gearbox sumps ?

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Motorbikes oil is different because there is a wet clutch setup.
So you can't use the "hyper lubricating" additives that can be found in regular oils.

So I don't know if the synthetic oils for bikes are the appropriate answer to reducing friction in your Mini engine and yet not damaging the gearbox.

Because the materials and clearances on a bike engine can be significantly different.

In fact if you can find any 20W50 that is synthetic, you're good because the way I see it, it is the oil "weight" that has an influence on clearances hence reliability of the gearbox.

Are there Synthetic 20W50 for bikes ?

Rusty by nature

20w50 are semi-synthetic, and it's too much for winter (like this year), my car had pain to start on 15w40 semi-synth.
15w50 exist in synth, for example the Motul 300v Factory Line for motorbike.
That's true, bike oils don't contain friction reducers because of wet clutch. Still bikes run at 13000rpm and they share oil with the gearbox. Also only high end oils will contain hyper lubricaters. Synth bike oils are supposed to better resist to the pinion work. They are also supposed to cool better as many air-cooled bikes have cooling problems.
It seems synchromesh are in steel in bikes and in brass on many cars. Fortunately they are steel-made in Minis.

Meanwhile I found the 15w50 300v at 10euros/L+shipping. I think synth oil will better resist to the turbo+gearbox and won't require an oil change after a track day.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm

Can you give the link to the cheapish 300V ?

I thought the first number was for hot running viscosity and the second for cold running.
So a better start-up would have involve some 15W30 wich starts to be dubious regarding pressure build up on start up, or is it not ?
Given the fact the oil pump is so high compared to the oil level I take with caution any drop in viscosity be it hot or cold one as it probably affect the pump succion hability (don't know if I make myself clear)

I think a better move around the starting issue would be to push the clutch so you replace friction in the gearset by friction of the clutch actuator wich should save a few ponies. Or maybe park the car inside ?

I fully understand that synthetic oil can stand being used at higher temperatures than mineral.

Question : isn't there more pressure involved (hence "cisaillement" of the oil - too lazy to search for the english word) with helical gears ?
Because that is also the difference with bikes gearbox.

Rusty by nature

Can you give the link to the cheapish 300V ?

I thought the first number was for hot running viscosity and the second for cold running.
So a better start-up would have involve some 15W30 wich starts to be dubious regarding pressure build up on start up, or is it not ?
Given the fact the oil pump is so high compared to the oil level I take with caution any drop in viscosity be it hot or cold one as it probably affect the pump succion hability (don't know if I make myself clear)

I think a better move around the starting issue would be to push the clutch so you replace friction in the gearset by friction of the clutch actuator wich should save a few ponies. Or maybe park the car inside ?

I fully understand that synthetic oil can stand being used at higher temperatures than mineral.

Question : isn't there more pressure involved (hence "cisaillement" of the oil - too lazy to search for the english word) with helical gears ?
Because that is also the difference with bikes gearbox.

Rusty by nature

I use a fully synthetic 25W50 car racing oil in both my Mini and my motorbikes. As long as the oil is not too "slippery" it works both places. If it is, it'll make the syncro rings not catch the cones, and in the bike, it'll make the clutch slip.

Edited by Vegard on 14th Mar, 2010.

Rusty by nature

It's a brand you don't have in the UK. I guess it's available in the UK under a different name, I don't know.



Only in 25W50

there are a few bikes that use dry clutches dont think they specify differnt oils to wet clutch bikes? worth looking into i guess

Speeding is like masturbating, everyone does it, but not all of us film it and put it on the internet

[quote=fab,8th Oct, 2010]fuck off

Veg, your oil that comes only in 25W50 has 10W40 written on the can, how come ?

Edited by Advantage on 14th Mar, 2010.

Rusty by nature

http://www.statoillubricants.com/mar/lu/st...y_HP_25W-50.pdf

That is the one ?

Rusty by nature