Heater/Cooling hoses.
Turbo Mini Forums

Ok.

I intend to run a heater in my 1293 turbo, but i hear the take off from the left of chamber 4 helps flow and therefore cooling around C4. So in the summer if its ever hot, the heater will more than likely be of, so flow around this area will be reduced, not to mention the inlet and turbo, meaning at the hottest time of the year my cooling will be at its worst?

So the solution i am planning is, run a hose from the take off from C4 to a T junction, one running to the inlet and turbo then to another T then to the bottom hose.

From the first T the will be an inline switch and a one way valve, then to the heater and then to the second T.

Hope you follow, other than this being a bit messy and complicated do you see any major floors? i am concerned about back flow but hoeing the water pump and the one way valve will keep this in check? Or is there a simpler solution, short of binning the shitty noisy heater?

which leeds me onto my other simpler question, i have a standard 1275 silicone bottom hose. the ID reads about 10mm and ED about 15mm is going to stretch alot? is the ID intended to be 15mm - 5/8th?

a nice history lesson from V about different hose bores would be nice


Thanks for the help you guys always provide.

What year is the car?

currently it's a stock 1984 998 Mayfair the only thing that will remain the same when I swop out the engine is the heater.

It should have 1/2" heater hose as standard then so all you need is a standard tap and a standard 1/2" to 1/2" adaptor for the bottom hose.

I would take it back to the top hose, otherwise you are bypassing the rad.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

the silicon bypass hose i bought with a set from Minispares years back (think it was called 'revotec') never fitted.

As you say the ID of the hose (3/8") does not fit the cylinder head take off (1/2") nor the adapter to the bottom hose or the heater pipes

I had to make my own adaptors in the end.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Can't you just leave the heater valve open all the time and not switch the heater on?

or just bypass the heater in the summer by joinging the pipes?

Why not run the heater from a sandwich plate take off with an inline valve like the MPI uses. You can then use a take off from the head for the turbo. This is what I've done and it seems to be working well.