clutch plates
Turbo Mini Forums

which clutch plate would you guys recommend for road and drag use? i've never even changed a clutch before so i have no idea what to go for, but i'm swapping to pre verto when i take the engine out to fit the cross pin diff as my verto clutch is on the way out and the release bearing is shagged.

the engines currently putting out 110bhp and 120lb/ft according to spams rollers. i'm not bothered about little things like the clutch pedal being heavier etc, i just want a plate that will last a season easily.

i'm guessing all i need for the swap is a flywheel/backplate, diaphragm, clutch plate, is the bolt in the end of the crank different aswell?


Cheers, Nick.

Yes the bolt is different, the verto one is 30mm A/F whereas the early one is 1 1/2" A/F. The late one also uses a integral locking tab thing that is crap, the later one uses a proper locktab.

A lot of people seem to use the road/rally type friction plate with good results, they are more hardwearing than the std ones, but not as harsh as the paddle type.

As for the diagphram spring, grey or maybe double grey seem to be the order of the day, I would guess orange maybe not quite strong enough for a torquey turbo engine.

You also need to change the release plunger and arm as well as the bits you already mentioned.

Use a Grey with the organic plate.

Machine the backplate lugs to 23.5mm (25.4mm as standard) if you use a grey - assuming you use just two driving straps. If you use three straps, machine more off (whatever the thickness of a strap is).
I use just two straps in mine, and 170+ lb ft hasn't failed them yet! LOL!

cool, i was looking at the road/rally plate so i think thats what i may go for and the grey diaphragm, i'm going to be building another engine for next season with more power hopefully so i might aswell get the grey now.

yeah the longer was the only bit i knew about aswell as the release plunger, i've got a wok off a thou which i'm hoping will fit save having to swap the plungers over.

Cheers dude.

ooo more answers. now ive got a conflict....lol

ive only ever seen a pre verto setup briefly so i have no idea what the driving straps are sorry. looks like i better get talking to doodmeister and see if he'll show me how it all works seeing as his is all in pieces still

The drive straps are a fairly weedy bit of spring steel that make the backplate still move when the clutch is deprresed.
They are known to stretch on high output engines hence using 2 or 3 instead of the 1 as standard.

Oh shit! I think this is the next mistake at my engine. The clutch was slipping before. Then i build in the grey diaphragm. Now its picking. Damn! Will try to machine the backplate lugs...

http://www.minifreunde.at

picking? You mean slipping?

I'm sure two (six in total) were fitted as standard. Although thin strips of metal, these are acting at quite a large radius... Interestingly, the only one I've seen fail was on an old 998; I suspect this was more a fatigue, than an overload failure! LOL!!!

Yes thinking about it 2 does sound right as std

Shows how long it has been since I have buggered about with clutches and flywheels.......mine is sat under the bench built up.

I took the flywheel from an old 998...

http://www.minifreunde.at

wondering whats a standard vertro clutch capable of holding power wise assuming its in fair condition?

well mine was fine on me standard turbo lump, about 2000 miles on my new engine and its knackered, hence the swap to pre verto.

might be a retarded question but can i use a 998 flywheel? i'm guessing the crank's smaller on the 998?

Nick.

No the crank taper is the same for all cranks, so any flywheel will fit. 998 one will be fine.

grey with rally plate works well.no probs at all

sweet! thats saved me a bit of cash then, all i need at the end of the month now then is a grey, a plate and a cross pin diff.

Cheers dudes, thanks for the advice