Hot wires!!!
Turbo Mini Forums

Evening peeps. I've changed my starter motor to the later one with the piggy back solenoid but retained the inner flitch solenoid. I've bridged the two main terminals on the wing solenoid and run another feed from one of the spade connectors to my piggy back. Everything starts and runs, the only thing is that the pink/white wire gets really hot. It runs from the wing solenoid to the plus side of the coil. I have done an extensive search but can't find anything about the 'hot wire' problem..........oh and I'm a mong when it comes to wiring. Any help will be excellent.

its a resistive wire, its supposed to get hot, i assume its only connected to the coil and i assume you dont have electronic ignition.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

yep. Got electronic ignition. My dizzy has a module on the side. I'm also running a lucas dlb198 coil.

Edited by madcatminis on 20th Mar, 2010.

The pink/white ballast wire shouldn't run from the (original) solenoid but from the ignition switch or fuse box (depending on year). The only wire from the wing solenoid to the coil was the black/yellow or white/yellow ballast bypass from the extra tag on the solenoid.

1 - the pink/white shouldn't be used with electronic ignition because of the voltage drop it creates but,
2 - it shouldn't get that noticeably hot even if it is mis-used.

Sounds like it's wired wrong.

Also, if you are now feeding the pre-engaged starter solenoid from the original wire that operated the wing solenoid, you will (eventually) melt your ignition switch.

The wing solenoid draws very little current as it only moves a contact plate, the pre-engaged solenoid draws lots of current as it has to move a gear in and out of engagement.

Leyland/Rover added an extra relay when they started using the pre-engaged starter motor to make sure the ignition switch lasted the warranty period.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

is the pink wire trying to backfeed into the solenoid via the coil? I had a simiklar problem when i changed from pre engaged to inertia starter i cant remember why but the coi l feed was trying to fire the solenoid somewhere ilse in the circuit, everything else was fine other than the pink wire getting very hot

edit : and thats why i should post using my phone

Edited by Brett on 21st Mar, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I've had a good mess this afternoon and found that the pink/white wire starts from the fuse box (no'5) and goes to the wing solenoid. It then joins up with a white/yellow wire and both of these go to the plus side of the coil. Only the pink/white wire gets hot. I'm confused????

whats the pink wire connected to at the solenoid? iirc it should go there
no it should go to the coil, and if you have a 6v coil (hence the pink wire) then there will be a wire giving the coil 12v feed on cranking
put a picture of your solenoid up, there is two ( or more) types sounds like your doing the same as me i bought the wrong solenoid that didnt give a 12v feed on cranking, but it was sinking the coil feed making the pink wire very hot

Edited by Brett on 21st Mar, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

what does iirc mean? Sorry for being thick. The pink/white wire is connected to a small spade terminal on the solenoid.

If I Remember Correctly - iirc

Thanks adcyork.

the pink wire should go straight to the coil, as that is the resistor for the 6v coil

and i think the module on the dizzy needs 12v ignition feed but please wait for that to be confirmed be someone else, i have never wired one

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Here's some pictures guys.







The top picture shows two cables joined to one terminal going to the plus side of the coil. One is pink/white and the other is yellow/white. the pink/white goes all the way back to the fuse box and it is this one that gets hot.

Edited by madcatminis on 22nd Mar, 2010.

Usuall ballast wiring is pink/white from a 12V supply to coil +ve and a yellow/white (or yellow/black) from the auxiliary tag on the solenoid also up to the coil +ve.

From your edited post, this seems to be what you have.

BUT, none of this is right for an electronic dizzy.
1 - you need a straight 12v feed to the coil and down to the module. Just take it from the fusebox where the pink/white currently feeds from.
2 - You do NOT need the yellow white wire or anything on that second small tag on the wing solenoid. You just need the single 12V feed, there is no need for the ballast bypass connector tag on the wing solenoid with electronic ignition.

EDIT - as previous post was revised....

Edited by Rod S on 22nd Mar, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

So all I need to do is ditch the yellow/white wire and wire the pink/white wire straight up to the plus side of the coil.

And, having just looked closely at the photos, that "bridge" on the wing solenoid is a fire waiting to start.....

The two posts need to be bridged with a cable or link plate the same size as the main cables

EDIT - or see below

Edited by Rod S on 22nd Mar, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Okey dokey. Shall sort out that dodgy bridge. Rod S your a star.

No problem....

The conversion from original points, and especially ballast wiring, to the electronic dizzys has come up a few times in recent posts.

To the Moderators, is it worth putting a decent description of all the options in the FAQ part of the forum ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???