not so dry deck. lol
Turbo Mini Forums

Ive had my head dry decked, but after pressure testing it, it is apparent that there are fook loads of pin holes allowing pressure out (tested @ 3-4bar air pressure and soapy water).

The guy that did it for me, said there may be a few pin holes and he's happy to sort it for me if there was, but im a bit concerned that it will need ANOTHER skim afterwards!

Is there something I could use to block these holes up? Ive seen something called 'lab-metal' but could be just a gimick?

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Content.asp?id=2

Cheers
Matt

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

matt , i took a vintage alvis block down to a company in slough for sealing ,ultraseal surface technology ,in petersfield av ,might be worth a call? might be bloody expensive to but you can allways ask .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

i picked up a 1927 alvis the weekend was quite cool

I've had the bypass hole on my water pump blocked up with a bolt threaded in and sealed with JB Weld for years.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Matty, get yuorself some heavy duty block sealant, its the ceramic stuff, you run it in the engine for a few days then drain it off and refill as normal apparently,

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I get the feeling that Matty is not going to get as far as running the engine

There is a stuff I have used to repair refrigerator evaporators, usualy after the missus has stuck the knife through it trying to defrost it!

Its an green epoxy that melts at a high temperature and can withstand high pressures. I used it on the pin holes of my front mount rad and worked a treat. You would have to open out the holes a little to get enough in, then you can sand it back. Its good for 177*C and 41bar!!!

You will have to get it from a refrigeration suppliers such as HRP Climate Center or Dean and Wood and will cost around £18

http://www.laco.com/productDetail45.aspx

Some of the holes you can even see they are that small, but obviously they are big enough for air to pass through, so seeing them manually may not be an option.

Ideally if there is something I could fill the head up with and it find its way into all the pin holes, that would be ideal!

Robert - have you got a ball park figure how much that block cost to get sealed?

Carl - Does it have to be ran with that stuff? Could I fill the head up with it, then just drain it out after a couple of days?

Colin - Hmm that looks like it could be an option! How hot do you need to get it, a bit worried about ditortion.

Edited by matty on 22nd Mar, 2010.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matty, you only have to heat the surface enough to get the stuff to melt, which is obviously a little more than 177*c

I dont think distortion would be a problem. We use heat to shrink the centrifugal impellors onto and off the shafts, and that is a highly balanced precision aluminium part.

Ultimately the best option is to open out the holes with a dremel/ die grinder and re weld it, then re skim it

no i dont matt , i just dropped it off for a chap ,heres thir bumf though ,give them a ring ?


http://www.surfacetechnology.co.uk/impregn...ion-casting.htm


http://www.surfacetechnology.co.uk/contact/addressbook.htm

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

This is the stuff the MoD uses. The promotional video shows it being used to repair a verticle crack in a Type 35 Bugatti block, also a 'bolt' thread made of the stuff.
As I remember, it's not cheap, but very good!
http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx

Ive dropped the head off at my welders today, waiting to hear back from him, to find out what his plan of action is.

Ive found these, could be worth a try I suppose, to avoid another skim:

Cheers for all the suggestions, the ceramic stuff seams to be the favourite at the moment. I think ive found one that doesn't require the engine to be ran.

http://www.dukeriesengineering.com/www.duk...ms/info.php?p=4

http://www.dukeriesengineering.com/www.duk...ms/info.php?p=4

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matty, couldnt you put the ceramic stuff in, then apply a bit of pressure and heat to it (or fill it with the kettle)

End of the day thats all the happens when its running, then dont fill it quite full so you can move the liquid about.

Blow torch can be used to add additional heat.

I was thinking the same Iain. I was trying to find out what actually cures it, heat or pressure or both?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

even better matty, brim it with water, heat it to boil and it will steam to give you both pressure and temperature, just need a safety valve! ha ha!