trimming the engine mount/rad bracket
Turbo Mini Forums

will be refitting the trigger wheel soon, i took it off to change the fan belt and never bother putting it back as it was such a pita, and didnt need it at the time.

so this time in preparation, ive modified the engine mount a little to give a bit more clearance, but do you guys think itll still be up to the job?






this shows it next to the current bracket so you can see how much room it will save



tar

joe

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I wouldnt trust it personaly. Why do you need to remove so much just to change a fan belt?

Edit* I can see why now

Edited by Sprocket on 25th Mar, 2010.

I think it would depend on the other additional mounts/steadies used.

On my engine id prob use it, as mine is fairly solid elsewhere.
regards
colin

What I would do is compensate the size by the thickness of metal used.
Maybe you can weld reinforcement on the sides ?

Rusty by nature

well, have quite a few knocking round, so marked out on the current mount where i really needed material removing, so i can take the least material away as necessary



but even with a good 1/4 inch trimmed away from the sides near the rad mount, theres still never going to be enough room to change the fan belt without dismantling it all



so left it there for tonight as i cant find a 820mm fanbelt (thought i had a couple knocking round the garage? theyll no doubt reappear once ive bought some more lol)

leaning even further towards whacking a clubman front end on this too now and using a front rad

Edited by joeybaby83 on 25th Mar, 2010.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

seems much better

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

I have done this, but I never had to remove much down by the bolt as you seem to have. I notched round the trigger wheel center, cut the top face where the rad bracket bolts so it was parallel with the wheel, and then smoothed in the front verticle edge just enough to get the belt down past. From mmory, nothing needs removing from the bottom bit of the verticle face down near the top bolt hole.

Does that make sence?

But the one abov is much better than the first. You will still struggle to get a belt fitted with it on the engine though

Edited by Sprocket on 25th Mar, 2010.

yeah, in retrospect i didnt need to remove as much as i did from the bottom, but either way, like you say sprock, the centre boss is the main obstruction, ill have a fresh look tom and see if its gonna be possible at all before throwing the towel in completely

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I did away with the mechanical fan & shroud, so trimmed the mount bracket when I replaced the harmonic balancer just to make it easier - and lighter

Moke what pulley is that?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

looks like a romac/swiftune pulley to me.

Nice and expensive then.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Romac. Works well, and not that expensive for me here.

More to the point, I have a fairly torquey 1430cc that sees a fair few hillclimbs & track days and could live with a fair reduction in bracket metalwork.

Oh, and please excuse the grime in the pics.
Had a gasket let go on the last track day.

Moke,

no mech fan + side mount rad + Australia's fine climate (+ electric fan) = eletric fan kickin' in more often than not ?

Rusty by nature

result

as theres a fair bit of axial give in my engine mounts, i elongates the bottom 2 gearbox mounting holes ever so slightly (so you can still engage the captive nuts) to rock the rad bracket bit away from the trigger wheel

now got just enough room to squeeze a fan belt through

Edited by joeybaby83 on 26th Mar, 2010.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

looks good. How well do the quick release mounts work?

at first i hated them, were a pita to slot home as the hex head kept catching, so put a button head bolt on the bottom and they slip in and out like gooduns now



in the car, theyre solid as a rock, not felt the engine clunk clonk once, so thumbs up as far as im concerned

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Another question unrelated to the topic, but hey ho....

Does the red wire from the alternator run to the positive on the starter and then of to the battery? It's one of the things I have to get my head round for when I butcher my loom.

Also looks like your alternator is a nat's bollock too close to the rad and is making the fan belt twist slightly, but that could well be the fizzy beverages scewing my vision.

yeah, just straight to the battery feed to the starter

the belts not tensioned in those pics dude :) its straight as a die once done up toight

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"