My rusty rebuild
Turbo Mini Forums

I have a thread running over on TMF but never get replies, input etc and struggle to sift through so many posts.

This place seems a bit more me (a bit mental)

So here are some pics of car when bought and then some of the progress. Basically anything that wasn't rotten had been repaired really badly! so this has turned out to be a pretty big challenge.

Plan is to have full roll cage, buckets, fibreglass front end, doors and boot along with 1293 with T3 turbo (have turbo now) wasn't gonna tub arches but outside of arch was rotten so was forced into chopping them off anyway lol. So now will go with 7x13 ultralites i think

Have 4 pot allot callipers with vented disks for front and superfins for back and new set of spax all round.

When finished i think only bit not been worked on will be the rear view mirror!

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Welcome, looks like your off to a good start keep the pics coming.

Cheers, I have a load more on my phone with half the side cut off. started as a scuttle panel and now only rear floor pan is original on o/s lol

New floor pan is in front o/s and will weld on new sills etc shortly. been strengthening some areas also as I go.

Gonna be a few weeks now until I get at it again which is a pain as want to get sprayed by end of summer really then can rebuild engine etc during autumn winter

looks like your doing a good job :)
oh and welcome :)

2012 Avon class c 2nd place 13.8 @98mph

Welcome.

Looks like alot of work has gone into it already.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

cheers lads :) yes a fair bit of work already and have strengthened the front shock mounts etc while there. I need to crack on with the body now as really want to start the fun stuff with engine and running gear.

I am looking at a rotating assembly from MED with a set of their 18cc dished omega pistons. This coupled with a decent head and some gearbox work should give a nice engine pushing out some decent power. the 18cc dish should give me low enough CR to get upto around 20psi boost also although not sure if assembly will take this??

More homework to do I think. I was looking at the MED 7 port head also but would need a lot more work with turbo and maybe unneccesary.

here is a pic with floor pan now welded in and side of car chopped out!

I have decided to make flat floor pan now just trying to decided best way to swage floor pan for strength?? I am thinking perhaps a die from box and angle which i have seen somewhere else and then hammer form them with another die.

Should keep me busy for a bit. I have the side repair panels bought so will use those due to subframe mounts etc

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OK managed a few hours on car as finished job early at weekend :)

Made a new section to go in floor and inner sill which was rotten due to puddle sat there for years and also replaced subframe mount toeboard (section) and got the door step welded in. Just need to seem weld the plate in floor, make a rear arch infill panel, mount sill and then rear wing. I then need to mark for tubbing remove rear wing and weld in arch section.

once all complete I have the same the other side.

Basically it will be a new car lol!

Boot floor is all but shot and was going to make flat floor but everybody seems to think problem come mot time then IVA test to follow! I am not so sure but don't want to risk if that is the case.

SO the jury is out with the floor. If it was in good nick I would just cut sections out but not much is left so was gonna cut it all out. I have the side repair sections so was going to put those in and then make flat panel in between with swages for rigidity. although looking at swage I made in floor panel I need more practice hammer forming

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Nice work, that dreaded rear corner i had the same issue, thankfully complete now.

1972 998 TURBO SLEEPER

yeah I have both corners the same as back of car was just swimming in water!

It was nice actually putting something back on though rather than slicing it off.

Depending how much attention her indoors needs this weekend coming I may get the one side wrapped up. I am tempted to just take a week off work and blitz the thing soon.

I am looking at getting a soda blaster either buy or lease and going to town on the shell as half my time is spent scraping cr@p off. I can't use abrasive as it will ruin everything else in garage but the soda is pretty harmless.

Well the whole boot floor is gone now

I was going for completely flat floor but I am going to use outside repair pieces then flat plate between. It will give more mounting options without wheel well but will also ensure clearance for subframe remains.

Took pics on phone but the missus has just taken it back out of washing machine from 40deg mixed colours wash! So new phone just ordered and went for one of them I Phone things. was trying to buck the trend but have caved in now

So until i can get new rear section for above valance the work grinds to a halt again! I will finish cleaning everything up ready for new floor section.

K100 head should be here this week and hopefully some other bits also. need to go do more reading on this and calcualte compression ratio etc. I am told 8.5:1 to 9:1 good comp ratio for these heads.

I will do a for sale thread soon as have a 1275 A+ head and allassociated bits with it to sell along with hiff44 turbo carb and N/A carb both with manifolds, LCB sportex as wont be any good also. along with water pump and other bits.

out of curiosity, how did you make sure your sub mounts lined up on that rear corner when you replaced it??

cheers

I just took center measurements of mounting holes then ensured new piece went in the same. Wish I hadn't put part in now as have now decided to replace whole boot floor through to rear seat so could have put whole panel on! still it's done now although you saying that makes me want to pop out with the tape

So made some progress on the rust bucket in that it's not one any more

Finally one solid shell to work with and weld in cage now fitted along with inside primed ready to go

Underneath is now coated in gravitex. Just the wheel arched and sills to do which i will do with a smoother finish stonechip protection as my gun tends to give very orangepeel finish which is nice for underneath but not for paint areas.

So next up is to take delivery of all fibre glass such as doors, bootlid and 2 piece front end and then prep outside for paint.

Hoping to get this thing painted before the weather turns colder then can concentrate on mechanical when weather turns which I cannot wait to get stuck into.

A few pics

Cant attach pics anymore any idea why?

Edited by CH007 on 25th Jul, 2010.

lets try this

Edited by CH007 on 25th Jul, 2010.

OK was putting wrong address in :$

I will be prepping the upper body from this weekend so looking forward to getting closer now.

I am going to paint underneath first so it's then done underneath.

I am thinking of bolting on the rear valance rather than welding for removal later ir required. will be interesting to see how i get on with mot on that one!

Love it, your a quick worker! Wish the people doing my mini worked as quick as you do.

Really like the cage too, although the door bars look a little high and aukward to get in?

Doh schoolboy error should have been below bulge on b pillar not above!!!

It is awkward getting in and out lol. It just didn't seem high enough for protection with fibreglass doors below. I may cut it off the drop it and weld in cross brace pieces instead. More bloody grinding thought I had finished lol

I managed to get rear subframe stripped today and prepped and left in stonechip at present awaiting paint tomorrow.

Got the underneath of the car in the finished colour at long last. went for Ford Frozen White in gloss 2K.

Got this paint from Jawel and am seriously impressed with coverage It went straight over black stonechip with total coverage first coat! put 2 on anyway just to have nice paint layer under there. Arches are also done now.

I can now finish subframe rebuilds and slide them in and get back on wheels which I will need to shift the car about when I create spray tent inside garage.

Pics is attached

Does anyone know if on hi low or other height adjustment system if the rubber boots are just standard for ball joint? Mine are shot and need to get them changed.

Oh another nice find, rear wheels were spaced out 10mm with washers on each stud I am glad I didn't push it too hard on the way home when bought it

Looking good mate , keep it up .

Edited by EssexSteve on 31st Jul, 2010.

Looks great, but over sills

Thanks for comments :)

They are oversills but nothing underneath them. I had to cut out 2 old sills before fitting these

Make sure you vent them then, otherwise you've got a nice big moisture trap

On 31st Jul, 2010 CH007 said:
Thanks for comments :)
I had to cut out 2 old sills before fitting these

Yes i moved to the darkside

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