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chominsh

289 Posts
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, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

hi there

how you call this bolt? and where i can buy it??

it is from standard mini metro turbo engine




i hate haytnes manual!!!!!!! *angry* *angry* *angry* *angry*

i wanted to do everything 100% right but all time when i trying to do same way how is in the book - sh*t happens :(

do you know how tight it should be?
because in the book is :
Main bearing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . Nm 85 lbf ft 63 *angry*

but they breaking even before that point why??


i am so angry on that manual, why they need to write wrong info :(:(


please help!!

thank you

Edited by chominsh on 10th Jun, 2010.

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Nick
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It's a connecting rod bolt.

have a search for ARP rod bolts if you're feeling flush for extra peace of mind.

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


Anton

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you might get a better response if you spell check your post?


chominsh

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, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

are ARP rod bolts stronger that standard?

Thank you nick!

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chominsh

289 Posts
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, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

WoW £91 for set of bolts??? Wtf??

! :(:(

maybe any one have 1 spare to sell? :)

Edited by chominsh on 11th Jun, 2010.

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BENROSS

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Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

the bolts are a must! i have seen too many rod failures re using the standard bolts over and over, especially A+

it the rod bolts , bolt breaks its all over for the engine and box,






joeybaby83

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at the risk of sounding like a cunt, havent you made the mistake and done the big ends up to main's torque value?

i might have misread the post mind?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Adam_R

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near Dundee

just read my Austin Rover garage workshop manual (not a haynes manual)
and it says that the conrods are:
50nm for bolts
45nm for nuts

and for reference the Mains bearings are 85nm

i think joey is right and you have mixed up the torque settings


chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4



On 10th Jun, 2010 BENROSS said:
the bolts are a must! i have seen too many rod failures re using the standard bolts over and over, especially A+

it the rod bolts , bolt breaks its all over for the engine and box,


yea you right, it just sounds crazy to pay such amount of money only for bolts *oh well*

which one you think is better

1.

2. http://www.minispeed.co.uk/content/arp-rod...w-mini-cooper-s

3. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=33884&title=

4. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=34181&title=

will they fit?

Edited by chominsh on 11th Jun, 2010.

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maccamcvey

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out off intrest Are you polish?

and get the ARP ones!


chominsh

289 Posts
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, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

f*ck can not believe!! You right :/
my mistake :(

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chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4




On 10th Jun, 2010 maccamcvey said:
out off intrest Are you polish?

and get the ARP ones!


???
no i am from Latvia

I haven't decided yet, i think i will go for cheapest ones, because I do not have enough money right now :(
on the other hand...

how often you must to change them?

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wil_h

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In an engine revving to 6k rpm the standard bolts are MORE than up to the job. If they werent then you'd see a lot more failures than you do.

I'd go for number 1. in the list above. But looking at the distortion to the unbroken bolt 'd be changing all of them.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Scruffy

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I'm all for people learning but judging by the questions you have been asking and the mistakes/problems you have had I would serious recommend you find someone local to double check your work or this engine rebuild will end up and expensive pile of scrap parts. Anybody near Mitcham who can assist?

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know *wink*



Brett

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basically my advise is spend the cash if you need the part, it might cost 90quid now but will cost 5+ times over if the said part lets go
build it right build it once i learnt the hard way...
and im also up for learning along the way but some things need to be learnt before you start..

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


Vegard

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I'd recheck the size of the rods after doing this. Tightening up rod bolts until they break has guaranteed fucked up the rod.
Have the big end resized. I'd check the nut surface as well, I guess this has been given a hard time.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

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On 11th Jun, 2010 Vegard said:
I'd recheck the size of the rods after doing this. Tightening up rod bolts until they break has guaranteed fucked up the rod.
Have the big end resized. I'd check the nut surface as well, I guess this has been given a hard time.


I agree, i made this error and ruined a rod


chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4



On 11th Jun, 2010 Brett said:
basically my advise is spend the cash if you need the part, it might cost 90quid now but will cost 5+ times over if the said part lets go
build it right build it once i learnt the hard way...
and im also up for learning along the way but some things need to be learnt before you start..


yea i agree, but can not find any one local to give me advice, that why i am asking you guys, but I feel terrible to ask every silly question :)
trying to learn from books but it is not easy :/

also can not afford to buy the best and high price parts just without reason But if i am taking a gamble with cheap ones than off course i prefer to spend all my money and go for secure parts.

I just want to rebuild my engine maybe little bit better than it would be standard one.

my target is to run it on 9-10psi for now. is it would be ok with standard engine?
later on I hope to change clutch, rocker assembly and maybe to upgrade my gearbox and rise psi till 13-15.




So which ones of 4 options (or other) you would go for?


Thank you for help!!

Edited by chominsh on 12th Jun, 2010.

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rubicon

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On 12th Jun, 2010 chominsh said:


On 11th Jun, 2010 Brett said:
basically my advise is spend the cash if you need the part, it might cost 90quid now but will cost 5+ times over if the said part lets go
build it right build it once i learnt the hard way...
and im also up for learning along the way but some things need to be learnt before you start..


yea i agree, but can not find any one local to give me advice, that why i am asking you guys, but I feel terrible to ask every silly question :)
trying to learn from books but it is not easy :/

also can not afford to buy the best and high price parts just without reason But if i am taking a gamble with cheap ones than off course i prefer to spend all my money and go for secure parts.

I just want to rebuild my engine maybe little bit better than it would be standard one.

my target is to run it on 9-10psi for now. is it would be ok with standard engine?
later on I hope to change clutch, rocker assembly and maybe to upgrade my gearbox and rise psi till 13-15.




So which ones of 4 options (or other) you would go for?


Thank you for help!!




your only 20 mins down the A24 from me if you need a hand....

On 2nd Oct, 2009 Vegard said:


On 1st Oct, 2009 Jimster said:
I bet my first wank came quicker than your first mini turbo


These new modern turbos with their quick spool up time, would make the competition harder.


On 15th Aug, 2011 robert said:
phew!!! thank you brett for smashing in my back doors .( not something i imagined writing... EVER)


chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4


your only 20 mins down the A24 from me if you need a hand....[/quote]

hi mate!

it nice to hear that! :)

are you living in Epsom?


is it possible to bring all my striped engine for inspection before i put it back together? :)

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chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

so wich ones i should buy to run safety on 10psi????


thank you

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Advantage

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Near Paris - France

Turboed engine does not need a lot of rpm and wil_h said go for option 1.

I would listen to his advice.

On the other hand I would also check the rods as stated by Vegard.

Rusty by nature

On 23rd Jun, 2008 paul wiginton said:

They said "That sounds rough mate." I said "Cheers it cost me a fortune to make it sound like that!"


chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

tomorrow will compare all rods, i hope for the best :)

thank you

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stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 10th Jun, 2010 chominsh said:
hi there

how you call this bolt? and where i can buy it??

it is from standard mini metro turbo engine




i hate haytnes manual!!!!!!! *angry* *angry* *angry* *angry*

i wanted to do everything 100% right but all time when i trying to do same way how is in the book - sh*t happens :(

do you know how tight it should be?
because in the book is :
Main bearing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . Nm 85 lbf ft 63 *angry*

but they breaking even before that point why??


i am so angry on that manual, why they need to write wrong info :(:(


please help!!

thank you



Sorry....but thats funny *surprised*

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


chominsh

289 Posts
Member #: 8160
Senior Member

, mitcham, surrey, london, cr4

funny or not, but i will remember it for the rest of my life *happy*

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