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13 Posts Member #: 8864 Member |
19th Jul, 2010 at 11:42:20pm
Hi guys, fronts got a little rot on it in a few places and instead of paying for a respray on the front for it to rot again 12 months later i am considering a f/g flip front + it will make maintenance a lot easier.
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 9258 Posts Member #: 123 Post Whore Betwix Harrogate and York |
20th Jul, 2010 at 07:52:08am
Personally, for an everyday car I'd fit steel and make sure it's well protected, something that BL never did. this way it'll last for ever.
Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph
On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:
the design shows a distinct lack of imagination, talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry. |
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 9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
20th Jul, 2010 at 08:18:26am
i went back to steel front ( removeable) as i didnt like the grp one, it cracked within weeks it warped it vibrated and it used to flex on the motorway the bonnet lifted so much in the middle i could see the plenum. it made the front end go extremely light at high speed
Yes i moved to the darkside |
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 1342 Posts Member #: 2292 Tool Herne Bay, kent |
20th Jul, 2010 at 08:59:53am
for road car= steel removable front end
On 27th Apr, 2010 Rick.SPI said:
cant beat a good blowout. |
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68 Posts Member #: 7711 Advanced Member Beek, The netherlands |
20th Jul, 2010 at 09:14:02am
Are ther also templates for cutting out de holes for the headlamps?
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 392 Posts Member #: 5702 Senior Member Cornwall |
20th Jul, 2010 at 09:21:38am
Im with jamz, flipping is a waste of time imo. for the one job i had to do where it was worth flipping it, it was still in the way. If i do one again it will be removable front + bonnet for certain. |
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 16540 Posts Member #: 4241 King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner Rotherham, South Yorkshire |
20th Jul, 2010 at 09:30:52am
Depends which way you flip it. I had considered a steel flip hinged at the bulkhead end. Have a look at Rod S' build thread, he borrowed my idea On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it 
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9502 Posts Member #: 1023 Post Whore Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
20th Jul, 2010 at 09:46:16am
by flipped i mean removable, its mounted by 6 high tensile bolts, the bonnet will be pinned,
Yes i moved to the darkside |
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392 Posts Member #: 5702 Senior Member Cornwall |
20th Jul, 2010 at 10:48:51am
Flipping from the bulkhead is a different story quite impressive if you can get it right.
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 (2)[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/150672766@N03/]Rod Sugden[/url], on Fli) 5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
20th Jul, 2010 at 10:59:32am
On 20th Jul, 2010 apbellamy said:
Depends which way you flip it. I had considered a steel flip hinged at the bulkhead end. Have a look at Rod S' build thread, he borrowed my idea  
It is the best of both worlds if it can be made to work. I saw it first on a picture of an overseas one, but it appears the only off the shelf hinges are made in the USA and very expensive. Andy's idea was to use Audi (can't remember the model) boot hinges and he sent me a few pictures of his Audi's boot but I couldn't visualise them the "right way around" (to clear the scuttle panel, the whole front must rise before it rotates) so, after a few failed experiments with double glazed window hinges..... I made my own hinges. 
It was a lot of trouble and still not finished. I agree with everything above, a normal single piece flip front (hinged at the front) is worse for access than a steel front - I had one on one of my early Minis and would never do it again, hence all the work above. With the benefit of hindsight though, a two piece with the outer section pinned/bolted and a conventional bonnet is probably best. As for the IVA thing, I think some people on the "other" forums have a vested interest in IVAs - maybe they work for VOSA ???? I have read and re-read the rules as obviously I will be facing this soon and, like most government rules, they are totally UN-clear. It all seems to hinge (forgive the pun) on the definition of "radically altered". IMHO flip and/or removable fronts have been used and MOT'd for years and, providing the subframe is braced properly, is not a structural issue. Best answer is to talk to your local MOT station before you do it to see if they have a view on it, or go to a "Mini friendly" place. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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13 Posts Member #: 8864 Member |
20th Jul, 2010 at 01:28:50pm
First of all I'd like to thank everyone for posting constructive and non degrading posts as I got elsewhere! Thankyou :)
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61 Posts Member #: 8970 Advanced Member shropshire |
20th Jul, 2010 at 07:58:42pm
what about carbon whats a carbon front like when driving at speed anyone no as i was gonna go for carbon weezal jobby any ideas |
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617 Posts Member #: 6558 Post Whore Pueblo, Colorado, USA |
20th Jul, 2010 at 08:17:43pm
I can tell you here in a couple of weeks, as I've got mine on order. |
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2497 Posts Member #: 1954 Post Whore Luton Bedfordshire |
21st Jul, 2010 at 01:03:02pm
Mine is a steel flip front which is easily removed for the heavier jobs. If you have rot in your front panels you will never get rid of it. small areas of surface rust can be delt with very easily with a spot blaster which you can get from Halfords, this only removes the corrosion so leaves all the good material behind unlike grinding the rot out.
Own the day
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 3329 Posts Member #: 184 Senior Member Melton Mowbray, Pie Country |
21st Jul, 2010 at 01:13:02pm
Carbon is no better than GRP for panels. It only becomes stronger and lighter for structural areas. Waste of money unless you like pub points. imo.
On 20th Jul, 2010 spanner1981 said:
what about carbon whats a carbon front like when driving at speed anyone no as i was gonna go for carbon weezal jobby any ideas http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
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