Starter Connection broken
Turbo Mini Forums

Got a mini starter to replace my metro one, one issue, the small spade connector was loose in the box, its somehow come loose/broken off.

This isnt a big issue and I wont be sending it back, in fact i've already cleaned it up and repainted it ready to go in the car.

but just to check, the small spade is the 12v output to the coil isnt it? if it is im sure i can run with that bit missing as I'm not running a coil but megajolt, admitedly i would have taken the MJ Coilpack power from this but I can get a power source from another ignition switched source im sure?

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

i think that is the one that bypasses the pink wire(ballast) to give the coil a 12v kick whilst starting

but swap solenoids over?

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

i thought the 12v kick as you put it was the white + red wire on the large spade (the one thats still on there)

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

The small tag is, as Brett says, the ballast bypass feed.....

The coil is fed through the ballast wire normally but when starting, this tag is an extra "switch" inside the solenoid to feed full battery voltage to the coil. (edit - 12V kick is probably a bad way of wording it but that's what it does - it increases the coil voltage when starting)

It does nothing when the engine is running.

As you say, not an issue with MJ, its just not required, but make sure your MJ is fed by a proper 12V feed (usually white) and not the pink/white ballast wire that used to go to the coil otherwise it will only get 8-9volts

Red/white is the operating (start) connection to the larger tag on the solenoid.

Edited by Rod S on 23rd Jul, 2010.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Just think of the weight you've saved

very true, 6 grams is a lot to some people on here, so keep an eye out for a trend of people pulling this connector out of their starter motors...you know someone will!

it's in the car now so i'll give it a start later and see how it goes. coil pack will get a feed direct from the battery via my big red battery cut off switch on the dash.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

The only other point (and I've mentioned this before in other threads), if you are fitting a pre-engaged starter to a Mini that used to have an inertia starter and wing mounted solenoid, you really should put a relay on the red/white wire that opertes the solenoid.

The wing solenoid draws about 3-5 amps through the ignition switch (start position). The pre-engaged starter solenoid draws about 30 amps because of all the bits of gearwheels it's moving as well as switches.

That's why it has a 3/8" lucar instead of the usual 1/4" one.

Leyland added a relay when they changed to pre-engaged. without one, your ignition switch barrel will have a limited life.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Cheers Rod. It was a pre-engaged before so I dont have that problem. I just needed a mini one rather than metro to give me some more room at the front for the intercooler.

Your mention of a 30amp draw concerns me slightly (wiring maths not my strongest point)

I am planning to run a 17.5amp rated wire (28/0.30mm strands) from a battery cutoff swich into a push button start and then onto the red/white wire. Considering the wire im using it thicker than the red and white I'm guessing this wont be an issue with the pre-engaged?

Edited by Simon on 23rd Jul, 2010.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

I think you should do as Rod says, and use a relay

As you say the 28/0.30 is thicker than your existing red/white it sounds like your existing red/white is for a wing mounted solenoid, ie, the car has been swapped to a pre-engaged starter but without the wiring upgrade.

The red/white on a car with a wiring loom with the relay specifically for a pre-engaged starter is larger than 28/0.30 (I can't remember the exact size but it is larger).

I used 44/0.30 to wire mine up to be on the safe side.

But the current is time rated..... it takes a lot more to damage a cable than the switch contacts so, as long as your pushbutton switch is rated at close to 30 amps the 28/0.30 should be fine.

The reason I allways mention this is because the switch contacts in the normal ignition switch are not rated for pre-engaged starters without a relay. If you are using a seperate start switch (pushbutton, whatever) you won't destroy your ignition switch, you only have to worry about your pusbutton.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

ah good point Rod, while Im not swapping an inertia to a pre-engaged it may well have had that swap before I owned it.

if i do stick a relay in which one do i need?

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

If you are using a pushbutton start and it's contacts are rated high enough (ie, about 25-30 amps) there is no need for a relay.

A relay is ony needed if the pushbutton (like a standard ignition switch) is rated too low.

Any normal 30A or 40A automotive relay - the four tag type - will do fine.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???