plug gap
Turbo Mini Forums

Just a quick question, what should i set my lug gap to? i cant find my mutro haynes at the minute and can't remember what it should be.

I'm using BP6ES plugs aswell, are these the right ones to be using? they're just what the motor factors gave me when i said metro turbo...lol

Cheers, Nick.

0.6mm and make it larger from there, is that right?

What coil you running ?? if it's the Lucas gold you can run a gap of 0.040" to 0.043" or 1.0 to 1.1mm.
I've run this size gap on all my plugs but noticed the best improvment on a set of NGK B8EV's that starting was alway first turn of the key and it ran clean all the time...
My ignition setup is a Aldon Ignitor with a Lucas Gold Coil..

As for the plugs i would think a NGK 6 heat range is on the hot side..

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

Doodmeister

how much is a lucas gold coil thes days ?

aldon ignitor ???

coil is around ?12 and Aldon Ignitor i think ?65

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

Well ive just found a super gold coil in the garage, its a 12V one so i'm guessing thats fine to use with my turbo dizzy, dont want to melt the module as my spare hasn't arrived yet!

I don't believe ANY gold coil was suitable for use with the Electronic module on Mk1 or Mk2 turbo dizzy's.
Stick to a standard metro coil. The most powerful (and fastest) A-series in the country (Carl Austin) uses stock modules and Stock (electonic ign) coils, and these are now proving 100% reliable.

Edited by turbodave16v on 13th Feb, 2005.

What?s the winding resistance of both coils? because if thier the same then using the gold, purple or even pink coil won't hurt a thing and if it's what you have lieing around the garage then use it and save a few quid for all the other stuff you need.

Is this Carl Austins Engine then ??

Edited by Doodmeister on 13th Feb, 2005.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

Resistance is almost the same between a points and an electonic coil...
As i understand from an electonics guy from work, the impedance will be the determining factor - something that a regular voltmeter can't measure - needs a scope or something like that (I stopped listening as it all became far too techical at that point LOL!).

Edited by turbodave16v on 13th Feb, 2005.

oh, yes that is Carl Austin's engine. But you'll notice by the lack of an alternator and rad that this is in it's 'build up' stage...
Anyone who was at MITP last year would have seen the problems i was having with it knocking plugs out (it'd miss, and the gas would wet the plugs). This has been happening over the past few years aswell, but he's always been happy to swap out plugs.
He was using two different systems on both engines - a Highpower system on the front, and a 'metro' on the rear, both running Gold coils.

I discussed my thoughts on it with him, and since purchasing two brand new aftermarket modules, and two brand new coils (suitable for the 12v electronic ign) from Lucas, he hasn't wetted a single plug.

Edited by turbodave16v on 13th Feb, 2005.

So why run the module at all and not just a set of points or an Aldon Ignitor. Surely it would make sence to get rid of anything that is standing in the way of a better spark at the plug.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

I can't comment on why he made the descision to stick with stock parts, but the contact breaker in an engine like Carls is probably not ideal - or needs too much attention to keep on top of?

I'll second Dave about Carl's coils, he reverted back to both engines being ran of Metro coils and ingnition modules.

They are a very good bit of kit.

Edited by giallofly on 14th Feb, 2005.

Doodmeister:

aldon ignitor ??

never heard of this?............??

The Aldon 'Ignitor' has been proven successfully over many years. It is the ideal choice for the race enthusiast, general road user or classic restorer. It fits entirely under the distributor cap for a neat, clean look and costs up to 40% less than other makes.

Facts about the 'Ignitor'

Operating voltage: 6v to 16v DC
Temperature range: 50 Deg.F. to 300 Deg.F.
RPM range: Full operating range of engine down to zero RPM

With the ignitor there are 30,000 to 35,000 volts available. Normal range on (OK) standard systems range from 26,000 to 27,000 volts. The 'ignitor' can be converted to a high energy system by the installation of a high energy coil and silicon HT leads. The Aldon 'Flame Thrower' coil or Lucas sports coil have both proven to be very compatible with the ignitors.

Seems a good peice of kit.. i've been running one for a few years now with no probs.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

thanks:
new on on me

Work firewall doesn't like Aldons site!

Is this a similar thing to the lumenition magnetronic then - but a little more heavy duty?

Cost?

?70.44 inc vat

I got mine from Minits in Brum for i think around ?67.

Edited by Doodmeister on 14th Feb, 2005.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

Had an Aldon Ignitor fitted on my car for about 4-5 years now never had any problems at all. Seems to be pretty much fit and forget ...........

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Just to go back to TDaves comment on resistance and impeadance. Basically is a bit like static and dynamic balancing.

Impendance is something to do with resistance and capacitance or a circuit, which all goes pete tong when the frequency changes.

The resistance measured with noting connected (static) and not running is "x" but this basically changes wth the frequecny (RPM) this is where the dynamics come in and things start to change a bit as they react with each component in the circuit. The coil is and inductor and acts as a capacitor but its capacity changes with frequency and has its own resistance so on blar blar blar

I'm no expert on electronics its just what I can remember from college a few years back.


If I remeber right I think the 6v has slightly higher resistance not by much though.


Think all you need to worry about is using the ballast resistor with the 6v coils and all should be fine or like its been mentioned already use flame thrower coils or what ever is around.

Edited by mikemph on 20th Apr, 2005.

basicaly aldon ignigther, lumnition are after market electrnic ingintion systems and the end of the day proberly are no better or worse than the eclecy mety dizzy system, my rolling road guy recon they are the best you can fit as a standard item and should power most what we want out of a series mini.

but the most problems always lie with mismatched coil to dizzy set up apperantly which can cause havoc.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

i always reckon problems evolve from poorly maintained std setups. spend £80 odd on a new lumenition setup and coil (plus cap etc as you'd do them as well) and the problem goes away....

reckon if you spent about £30 on new cap, rotor, leads etc and you find the same results!

I always use genuine lucas stuff and never had a problem, cheap then the "high performance" stuff anyway!!!

well, the midget has an Aldon/Petronix ignitor fitted and its packed up! fooking thing!

Might just buy some points and a condenser for the amount its used!!

you after vegards title dude?

no, it actually came up via google when typing in "aldon ignitor problems"

lol!