it just won't go ... part 3
Turbo Mini Forums

I have had this problem for some time now, my engine seems to cut out and back fire once the engine has warmed up. Once this has happend it will not pick up at all.

I have changed reg, lowered boost, fitted bleed valve (correctly this time), fuels lines are 10mm, did the t-pice trick - helped for short while but problem persist. Tested pump by using a mpi tank problem still there so put old one back on.

Seeked advice from Dereks mini centre and Avonbar, they have not had this problem before but reccomend not to take it on rolling road. But they think it is fuel related.

Covered a total of 200 miles max since fitting the engine in Dec 2003. Getting pretty desprate now - impossible to drive any where. Would be gratefull for any suggestion at all.

Could it be the Carb??? this is my next port of call...

Thanks

Edited by turbodave16v on 13th Feb, 2005.

is the module the same on a standard mg metro as on the turbo? if so I have one. Would this work do you think? thanks for your help

Sure, You need the heat conductive jelly/grease to go between the module and dizzy body aswell... Electronics shop?

tried the module - some luck. Went ok for about five miles - which is further than normal, but died at about 60 mph - had to pull over for five minutes then tried to pull away. After its done it once it continues. Seems to happen in fourth gear coming on boost - it like driving up an hill/ no pull.

It seems to be when engine is warm... have you heard of this problem before?

I would try a bit of freezer spray on the module when it is playing up see if that cures it tempary till it heats up again.
I had this on a fiat before on the crank sensor.

Also have you got the heatsheild between turbo and carb????

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

So you tried swapping your existing for another module that is of unknown condition?

Or not been fitted with enough heat conductive grease so it goosed the next module you tried

sounds like the coil or fuel pressure regulator to me

waiting for new module to arrive and think rebuilding the carb won't harm either. How much are the rebuild kits? Have changed fuel regulator for a brand new one. Have not swapped coil, which one would you recommend - i was told the gold ones were no good for the wiring is this true.

Sorry to be a pain or sound thick but how much conductive grease I am suppose to apply?

If only I had all this knowledge before I started this project. Thanks for your help I can see the weekend is going to be a busy one.

Grease - use steel wool to clean the dizzy body for maximum conductivity. Apply a thin 'smear' all over the surface of the module, and screw down. Excess will be squeezed out - but don't treat it like icing a cake kinda thickness!

You want a coil (can't go wrong with a Lucas) for a 12v Electronic ignition - this is of course assuming you have got rid of the balast resitor in the mini loom and are running a full 12v at the coil?

oh fook - that's something i didn't suggest to begin with, which could make for a lousy spark under load (don't know if it'd damage a module though...)

D

Carb rebuild kits are ?43 including the post from me
thats including spindles, bearings, and a new plain butterfly. plus all the seals, gaskets etc.
No-one ever has all the knowledge so its always handy to have somewhere to share it