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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > clutch sliping....

c2_mad

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hi everyone...


got a new problem....FML my clutch slips in third and forth gear, in first and second, i haven't seen it slip.its pretty much a stock engine, only difference is t2 turbo and intercooler, does this mean its gone? the strange thing is when i rebuilt my engine, 3 months back, i saw that the clutch was new, is it possible that the guy who had the engine before me put a 998 clutch or something and that's why it slips? or will it be something else?

i saw this kit on eBay..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUSTIN-ROVER-MINI-1-...3a5e418f1a#shId

what do you guys think? also what flywheel do you recommend?and is a lighten flywheel worth the money?

thanks in advance


Mr Joshua

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Luton Bedfordshire

You say its ok in first and second but slips in third and forth. Then I would say that it is on its way out but do the adjustment checks first just to be sure.

Own the day


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

There is no adjustment on a verto, only throw out stop, and since the clutch is slipping while engaged, its not the throw out stop thats the problem.

The throw out stop should only ever be adjusted with a new clutch.

If you are confident that it is a recently new clutch, it could well be a standard 1275 or 998 clutch. It certainly should not have the sprung friction plate.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


c2_mad

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new clutch it is then.... is the one in the link any good?


c2_mad

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anyone? also would you recomend getting a lighter flywheel? is it worth the money?


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

If you have the clutch out, measure the thickness of one of the 'fingers' on the spring and then use this thread to determine what clutch you have http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=4510

A lighter flywheel will benefit the acceleration rate ofthe engine, but, the verto flywheels are still considered heavey with these super light flywheels available today. It is not really a problem on a road motor, or turbo engine for that matter as the engine is not a high rever. What is a benefit though is that it is billet steel and not cast.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Amp

432 Posts
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Essex

My standard 1275 was slipping, turns out the oil seal was gone and had then covered the clutch in oil! May be worth having a look?


c2_mad

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hi guys

thanks for the reply guys...clutch is not out, so cant messure of the spring "finger" which brings me to my next question is it possible to replace the clutch with the engine in the car? or this totaly out of the question?

AMP, will check the oil seal.. where is the oil seal your talking about tho mate? can you see it with out removing any covers? pic would be awsome...

thanks again


1972-ANGUS

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sallys gap. garden of Ireland

not too difficult to do at all


1972-ANGUS

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sallys gap. garden of Ireland

the oil seal lives behind the flywheel in the housing on the drivers side of the engine.


c2_mad

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hi Angus, quick question, whats not to difficult? replacing the clutch? or checking the oil seal.. sorry im a bit confused and if your referring to the clutch ,do you have any tips?


Amp

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Essex

To change the clutch with the engine in the car is do-able if your patient yes, its the bolts that hold on the housing that are a pain, i had issues with 2 of them as you have to "tilt" the engine to get to them.

Once it's off it's just a simple case of flywheel off (assuming it comes off, you can't really hit the puller with a hammer in there but some heat (some!) can sometimes help). Make sure you have the keyway slot horizontal when you remove the flywheel and don't forget to knock back the locking tabs on the washer when you come to the flywheel nut!

The seal is behind the flywheel, its about £5 at most for a new one i think, removal is easy, theres a tool you can get to re-fit it which is about £20, or try find someone with one you can borrow/make one up! Don't do what i did, tap the seal in wonky and destroy it, then had no car! Whilst your in there you may as well change the seal, i also changed the bearing in the cover as it was off, and i didn't fancy having to take it off again!


c2_mad

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huge thanks to all you of you... really apreciate it...*happy*


haimesyboi

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Cornwall




On 9th Sep, 2010 Amp said:
To change the clutch with the engine in the car is do-able if your patient yes, its the bolts that hold on the housing that are a pain, i had issues with 2 of them as you have to "tilt" the engine to get to them.

While you have the cover off slot the two holes for these bolts so next time you only have to loosen them and it can slide off :)


c2_mad

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that a pretty good ideia mate*wink*

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