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clubbie70

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netherlands

22nd Sep, 2010 at 10:17:03am

finaly i found some m 14 grub screws for drydecking project, But they are m14X2 would this thread be to wide to seal it properly with loctite??

I would rather have m14X 1,25..

advice please :)

wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

22nd Sep, 2010 at 10:24:24am

Can you not use a high temp apoxy resin rather than loctite?

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On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:
the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Paul S

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Podland

22nd Sep, 2010 at 10:37:22am

1/4" BSP taper plugs would be better.

A parallel grub screw has nothing to tighten against.

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apbellamy

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Rotherham, South Yorkshire

22nd Sep, 2010 at 10:43:28am

We've used these for the oil galleries (m14 x 1.5):

http://www.airlink-compressors.co.uk/Fitti...UG%20M%20METRIC

Should be fine for dry decking

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*

Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

22nd Sep, 2010 at 10:49:01am

M14 X 2 is standard ISO, anything finer will be hard to come by in a grubscrew/plug - a compressed air specialist might stock them though as air fittings often use metric fine threads.

So long as the casting is more than 2mm thick in that area, ie, you get at least one complete thread for sealing purposes, it should be OK.

Although a parallel thread is not ideal, if you use loctite 577 which is actually meant for sealing these kind of threads (not normal nutlock/studlock) it will seal. I've used 577 on parallel threaded pipe joints and it has always worked for me.

EDIT - Andy beat me to the compressed air specialist thought......

Edited by Rod S on 22nd Sep, 2010.

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clubbie70

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netherlands

22nd Sep, 2010 at 11:00:03am

thank for replies guys... but what do you mean with "paralel"?

Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

22nd Sep, 2010 at 11:09:03am

On 22nd Sep, 2010 clubbie70 said:
thank for replies guys... but what do you mean with "paralel"?


A normal thread, like a nut and bolt, is parallel - same diameter all the way along so the nut runs the full length of the bolt.

With pipe joints, plugs, etc., it is common practice to use a tapered thread on one or both of the male/female threads. A tapered thread does just that, it tapers away from the correct size so locks up as it is screwed in. Note - it still needs sealing, but will mechanically lock up at a certain point. Trouble is, unless you do it very accurately you won't know where it is going to lock up so may have to machine bits off afterwards.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???
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