IS this spec going too far?
Turbo Mini Forums

Im currently building up my 1275 engine with supercharger but have i gone a bit too anal and could save money in places?

so far iv got:

Forged Pistons
Arrow Conrods
Uprated oil pump
Uprated water pump
Alloy 2 core rad
Vmax camshaft
Vmax charge cooler kit
Lightened + balanced Flywheel
Racing clutch kit (med special)
Cylinder head (hopefully one done by benross money permitting)
pushrods from MED
1.3 Roller rockers
Fuel Pressure Regulator
SCCR gearbox 3.44 final drive
Lightened and uprated Alternator
HIF 44 with K&N filter
Engine steady (top adjustable)
ARP bolts
ARP head studs
Centre Main strap

and maybe a couple of other bits aswel that iv forgotten, but is there anything that can be recomended or is pointless having?
All advice is appreciated.
Thanks alot

Yes.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

suckthrough most of that isnt really needed do all of that above and turbo it!

IMO :

Forged Pistons - No, unless very high boost and long high revving periods of use are planned. 10cc cast Omega's should be more than up to it, fitted .040in down the block at TDC (but see notes on CR in cylinder head choice as well).

Arrow Conrods - No, standard A+.

Uprated oil pump - Yes, std MT High Capacity steel backed pump, numerous equivalents from Minispares etc.

Uprated water pump - Yes, large impeller type but prob worth using the smaller 998 pulley to drive it faster.

Alloy 2 core rad - Yes, Radtec or similar

Vmax camshaft - yes, or N/A MG Metro or Avonbar AP2.

Vmax charge cooler kit - your choice, depends on boost level and usage.

Lightened + balanced Flywheel - yes.

Racing clutch kit (med special) - no, MT Verto but with a RTS conversion and fast road plate.

Cylinder head (hopefully one done by benross money permitting) - yes, suggest 36x31, with something like a 26cc chamber vol but your choice as it depends on what CR you require and what level of boost.

pushrods from MED - no, use std.

1.3 Roller rockers - your choice, but not really.

Fuel Pressure Regulator - yes but the choice depends on whether you are suck or blow s/c.

SCCR gearbox 3.44 final drive - Suggest a Minispares Clubman SCCR gear set and a Tran-X 4 Pin (cross pin) diff but the diff ratio depends on tyre size and planned use, the 3.44 is a good all rounder whether on 10's or 13's. On 10's it will be a good choice for acceleration up the strip but the revs will be higher at fast cruising speeds such as on the motorway. A 3.21 Metro Turbo diff or even a 3.1 diff might be better if you plan on cruising. Even lower is a 2.95 diff but that really is low and not recommended if you dont want to keep bogging down in the gears. Also, you should consider whether you want SC drop gears or stick with std, depending on power, what tolerance to transmission noise you have, and usage. MED also do SC drop gears that use a roller bearing idler gear for serious use. This is worth considering if you have deep pockets.

Lightened and uprated Alternator - your choice but the Nippon Denso 40 or 45 Amp ones are very popular.

HIF 44 with K&N filter - yes, but again, if your s/c setup is blow through then you'll either need a turbo HIF 44 or get someone to convert it to run a positively pressurised float bowl. There are alternatives to K&N such as Green or Pipercross to consider as well.

Engine steady (top adjustable) - yes, suggest steadies fitted to both sides at the top preferably, plus both lower ones which go from the RH transfer gear housing to the front of the front sub and the LH diff side cover plate to the rear of the front sub.

ARP bolts - your choice but std are up to it. If you do, then fit genuine ARP rod bolts.

ARP head studs - no, not IMO, use std.

Centre Main strap - not required for road use but if you intend holding the engine flat out for long periods then maybe.

Also might want to consider a mappable ECU and coilpack ignition, something like Megasquirt, Megajolt, etc.

Plus a lightened and balanced crank.

Others will have their own opinions so it would be interesting to hear their views as well on your choices.

Good luck.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

I'm putting forged pistons in my suck through engine. Accrolites are very good value at Avonbar at the moment (I should be on commision)

You can never go too far but there is always a better way of going too far.

Own the day

I know some of these things arnt needed, just i was thinking i dont want it to break so kind of went a bit mad with parts.
Money isnt much of an issue so if theres anything worth changing to something else or something that really wouldnt make a difference im open to suggestion and thanks to Turbominivan for some good advice already

its not just about the parts its how its all put together

I wouldnt bother with the pushrods and I prefer the Swifty super light flywheel assy

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

Too far for what?

This can not be answered without knowing what power you want and what boost/revs you need to achieve it.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Has this man/woman gone too far1
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=391044
I think not. I personaly think you can go silly but not too far, redundant safety in a build can only be a good thing.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 30th Oct, 2010.

Own the day

If your set on a supercarger then you can run lairyer cams on them. But for the money on the supercharger kit ect i would go for a mirage manifold and t2 turbo. Or like jonny sti a blow through sc kit it seems to give good power as well.

End of the day its your choice if you spend out on bigger better items now you dont have to later when you want more cake and you will do

p

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

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